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When rice met meat

Anoothi Vishal on the many avatars of the biryani and the many debates over its origins and recipes At Paradise, Secunderabad, the biryani restaurant that has made it to the tourist guide books, a board proclaims a nugget of truth. The test of biryani, it says, is to throw a fistful of rice on the floor and check whether each grain falls separately. Should two grains stick together, God forbid, the biryani is no good. That is the only simple truth about India’s most-loved dish. The history and form of biryani is a matter of passionate debate. The very origin of biryani is fraught with ...