Celebration getaways: Diwali under the stars or Pujo in a Rajbari

For those looking to celebrate India's biggest festivals away from home, boutique hotels, heritage properties are curating immersive experiences steeped in tradition, with all the comforts of luxury

Durga Puja in a Rajbari

 

A jay Rawla, founder and  director of The Rajbari Bawali, says his 50-key palatial home-turned-boutique hotel on the outskirts of Kolkata is nearing full occupancy for Durga Puja, which begins on September 28 this year.

 

Shoshti — the sixth day of the festival — is when the kohl-lined eyes are painted on the idol and celebrations begin in earnest. “We offer a typical bonedi barir pujo experience, just like the traditional ones held in aristocratic Kolkata homes,” says Rawla. “We have a family purohit (priest) who performs the rituals, and the idol is made right here in the complex by local potters.” 

Photo: The Rajbari Bawali, Kolkata

 

Guests are welcomed to the 300-year-old property with the rhythmic beat of dhak and conch shell sounds. They’re invited to participate in every ritual — from the dhunuchi naach to sindoor khela on Bijoya Dashami (the tenth day).

 

But it’s the food that truly ties it all together.

 

Served on painted terracotta and brass plates, the festive spread includes kosha mangsho, cooked in honour of Durga’s homecoming. “A traditional Bengali meal is designed to give the palate a full range of flavours,” Rawla explains. “We begin with shukto (a bitter gourd-based dish), followed by chingri (prawns), fish, meat and chicken, and end with sweets like roshogolla and sandesh.”

 

The festival after the festival

 

For some, the real escape begins after the celebrations end. At Narendra Bhawan Bikaner, once the residence of the region’s last reigning king, Diwali itself sees about 35-40 per cent occupancy. But the weekend after? Almost always full.

 

“We see a spike in guests from Delhi and Punjab escaping post-Diwali pollution,” says general manager Himanshu Bhargava. “They come for two to three days to unwind in peace.”

 

With an award-winning spa programme, room rates at the boutique hotel usually soar up to ₹60,000 a night once the festivities are over. 

 

Under the sky in Jaisalmer

 

At Sujan The Serai, a Relais & Chateaux property set on a 100-acre estate in Jaisalmer, Diwali decor is a luminous constellation of diyas and flower rangolis. Here, Diwali unfolds away from city chaos, through starlit film screenings, candlelit dune dinners, and live traditional music. 

Photo: Sujan The Serai, Jaisalmer

 

Room rates go up to ₹85,000 a night during the festive period, offering privacy and luxury in equal measure — with dining experiences like cinema or theatre under the starry sky or evening   at the dunes, while being serenaded by local musicians.

 

Desert dreams: Diwali in a fort

 

At Rohetgarh, a 17th-century lakeside fort-turned-heritage hotel near Jodhpur, Diwali is a multi-day celebration that begins two days before the festival. “We kick off with a grand dinner, followed by Lakshmi puja and fireworks over the lake,” says Avijit Singh, managing director, who is part of the family that has lived at the fort for 15 generations.

 

Musicians entertain guests over dinner, where the menu features heirloom Rajasthani dishes and sweets like laapsi (halwa made with whole wheat), malpua, and malai ghevar. “We even offer odhnis to the women and turbans to the men,” Singh says.   

Photos: Rohetgarh, Jodhpur

 

Room rates go up to ₹20,000 a night, and the 30-key property is typically sold out during Diwali. 

 

The day after, during a Rama-Shyama event, elders from nearby villages arrive at the palace singing songs of the community, a tradition that draws guests out to watch.