A Marwari treat for vegetarians

Kathputli, a new home-styled eatery, offers authentic and sattvik Rajasthani fare in an intimate setting

While most theme restaurants in the city end up getting their ambience right but fall short on the food, Kathputli, a vegetarian restaurant that recently opened its doors in New Delhi’s Defence Colony market, is refreshing in both aspects.

Spread across two floors, Kathputli’s offering to diners is simple, a great thing for a fussy indecisive eater: a Marwari thali (at Rs 499 plus taxes)  with an interesting choice of dishes from all over the Marwar region, which translates to Barmer, Jalore, Jodhpur, Mewar and Nagaur in modern day Rajasthan.  Each unlimited thali begins with starters like dahi pakoda, safed dhokla, phool kachori and corn samosa, alongside three chutneys — a moderately spicy green chutney, a sweet fruit-based chutney and a hot red chutney. It is accompanied by beverages such as spiced buttermilk, jaljeera and pudina paani. The meal carries on to the main courses with different kadhis, dals and vegetable preparations and ends with dessert, all prepared here in the traditional way by chefs especially brought in from Rajasthan,  giving Kathputli a stamp of authenticity.

Our meal starts with the makai rab soup, a winter special that is a lovely, warm and mildly spiced broth. One bite into the choorma, and my Rajasthani friend declares that “this feels just like home,” the highest praise she’s known to give. The dal seems cloudy and not very tasty, but the choorma is perfect in texture — with just the right amount of sugar and ghee. Rajasthani food is characterised by how soft the gatta is and Kathputli’s is melt-in-the-mouth, served with soft, crispy cabbage parantha, bajra roti and phulka. The authentic cuisine does have a contemporary flair, such as the corn samosa and pea kachori. The food is no-garlic no-onion and most importantly — non-greasy, sattvik and home-styled.

The dessert includes shrikand, which is just the right consistency, that perfect mix of tangy and sweet strained yoghurt, infused with delicious flavours of cardamom and saffron. Lapsi (a dalia-and-jaggery-based halwa) reminds me of one of my mother’s special Rajasthani recipes called baat, again invoking that indescribable feeling of home). I miss the moong daal halwa though, it is not in today’s menu.

Since the menu is changed on a weekly basis, some of the other dishes that could fill your handcrafted German silver thali depending on when you drop in will include Fried Beans Shaak, Chawal ki Kheer, Gulnar Kabab, Bhindi Masala, Gwar Phali Shaak, Papad Mangodi and Palak Jamun Saag.

Kathputli’s décor has incorporated bits from a Marwari khaandani culture; a particularly nice touch was to walk in to the smell of kaphoor burning in the blue-pottery-style tiled bathroom. The neatly designed interiors with elegant wooden furniture give the place an intimate feel. The ambience is true to its origins, with walls carved with Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal and the Chittorgarh Fort in relief, and meals served by a very courteous staff attired in traditional costumes.

The meal ends with a variety of candied saunf, served in a gorgeously wrought meenakari salver, and the cheque is presented with a traditional miniature marionette and elephant figurine. Kathputli’s homely atmosphere will take you back to your visits to Rajasthan, with added attractions for folk music lovers. While renowned folk singer Mame Khan performed at its opening a few weeks ago, the year end will see the dynamic experimental folk trio Barmer Boys perform a special set.

Business Standard paid for the meal. Kathputli is located at 35 Defence Colony, New Delhi. Phone: 9811829449