A whisper of luxury

Fashion house Fendi's book on Italian craftmanship opens up a world of secrets that will come in handy for designers, art connoisseurs and foodies

Around 35 years ago, a group of proud home owners in Italy came together and decided that private property was of public interest and should continue to be for centuries to come. They founded Associazione Dimore Storiche Italiane (Italian Association of Historic Residences), an organisation dedicated to "preserve Italy's history unaltered". Over the years, they have organised free cultural events that have revealed breathtaking treasures hidden across restored houses and palaces to the Italian public. Cortili Aperti (Open Courtyards), for instance, opened historically and architecturally important private courtyards and gardens for public viewing. Capolavori da Scoprire, another event, invited the public to take a tour of the great Roman palaces and villas and feast their eyes on the owners' private collections.

Did you know that in another part of Italy, Val di Funes in Bolzano, the Funes Sheep has been saved from extinction by the locals who have ensured its continued breeding? These sheep are the source of the luxuriant Naturwoll, chemical-free wool used in making natty jumpers, gloves, slippers and even rugs.

It is such fascinating nuggets of history and cultural restoration that one takes away from The Whispered Directory of Craftsmanship: A Contemporary Guide to the Italian Hand Making Ability (Vol III), the third in a series of comprehensive reference directories in alphabetical order, published by high-end Italian design house Fendi, currently spearheaded by its avant-garde creative director, Karl Lagerfield. Written by Ermanno Rivetti, the cheerful yellow book highlights the lesser-known Italian artisans across different trades, and their iconic works in the field of architecture, design, food, cinema and music.

It's no secret that the Italians revere their food and this book provides useful addresses of famous spaghetti haunts. Pastificio Benedetoo Cavalieri, owned by the Cavalieri family, for instance, uses old methods of pasta production that have made their way into the menus of tony restaurants like Four Seasons. For tourists, foodies and culinary students, the book may just be a prized possession.

Above all, The Whispered Directory, which will be available for sale at the Fendi store in Delhi's DLF Emporio next week for Rs 3,500, provides a deep insight into the trusted, far-reaching "Made in Italy" trademark. "Italy has been the home of luxury and handcrafted goods from the beginning of time," says Fendi CEO Pietro Beccari. And the book, he says, is an effort by Fendi to immortalise Italian crafts.

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The book is part of Fendi's famous "Whispered Grand Tour", a communication project unveiled in India last year when Fendi's creative director (accessories and menswear), Silvia Venturini Fendi, collaborated with Italian luxury car manufacturer Maserati to unveil the Limited Edition Maserati GranCabrio Fendi, incorporating the classic Fendi colours in a car. What grabbed eyeballs was the Fendi Maserati limited edition Selleria luggage and accessories Travel Kit, designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Fendi's Selleria line, launched in the mid-'90s, features hand-made products made according to Fendi traditions dating back to the 1920s. It is this tradition that Beccari believes is the Italian forte. Today, the Selleria collection of bags and luggage is touted as the first high quality, made-to-measure leather goods collection.

While the previous editions in The Whispered series featured unconventional items such as the novel, handmade Abici bicycles inspired by the designs of the 50s or Cuoio Romano's precious leather used by the maison Fendi for the Selleria Line, this edition takes the reader across Italy's undiscovered places of art, history and fashion. We are introduced to Milan-based Giuliana Cella, the designer for whom, we are told, The Financial Times specially coined the term "ethno-chic". Her sartorial creations (which, incidentally, draw upon Rajastan brocade, Ashanti strips, Punjab embroidery, antique Banarasi saris, Bathinda phulkari) have been shown at the European Parliament in Brussels - a first for any designer.

While one would have liked higher quality of images to match the delightful stories, The Whispered Directory may serve as a handbook for aspiring students of design, fashion, architecture, or just about anybody venturing on an Italian jaunt this summer. Thankfully, it reads nothing like the many coffee table books launched by big design houses.

While the third book comes at a hefty price, The Whispered series is a collector's item. Where else would a talented barber share space with design and fashion luminaries? In one such delightful chapter, Rivetti writes about Rome's Antica Barbieria Peppino, where the "clients are pampered with hot towels, custom-made razor blades, and scissors that are operated by expert pairs of hands." Rivetti adds, "This is how a barber should be." The author, of course, is reminiscing about a time when the routine shave or haircut was a rounded social experience for the urbane gentleman; a time when he discussed politics and love with his barber, also his confidant.

"Luxury is silent, its features subtle, craft unique," says Beccari. "The title signifies the whispered way in which Italian crafts have become a staple of all luxury connoisseurs, an integral part of bespoke products."

When a big fashion house pens down its love for national craftsmanship peppered with addresses of haunts and treasures scattered across its home, the world of fashion has no choice but to sit up and listen.