Silver jewellery with a quirky twist

Nothing glitters like silver for jewellery designer Sumit Sawhney. The author takes a look at his quirky creations

Backless gowns and dresses and backless cholis that are now increasingly popular at parties got designer Sumit Sawhney thinking: why leave the back bear? Why not create neckpieces that can be worn backwards? That's precisely what he did. Only he chose to create these unique neckpieces not in gold or diamond, but in his favourite metal - silver.

"Silver jewellery stands above the usual clutter of gold and diamond. It's a beautiful metal to design and experiment," says the 30-year-old Delhi-based designer who has taken handcrafted silver jewellery to a whole new level. His world of silver, which goes by the brand name 'Apala' (it means 'the most beautiful' in Sanskrit), is inhabited by a range of jewellery pieces weighing from as little as 5 mg to as heavy as 4.5 kg.

Quirky ways of donning jewellery have also been introduced. There is something called a 'nose jumble' - a tiny piece of jewellery that sits pertly on the upper bridge of the nose like a spectacle bridge without the glasses or the frame. "You don't have to look like a jewellery shop to make an impact or a statement. A stand-alone piece should do the trick," says Sawhney.

At the recent India International Jewellery Week at Mumbai, 75 per cent of his collection labelled 'Royal Tribe' found takers at the venue itself. The designs use gemstones and traditional motifs like peacocks, floral patterns, lions and elephants. Some are multi-layered. The inspiration came from various regional settlements, through their use of weaves, bunching styles, haslis and choker necklaces, bold anklets and distinct arrangements of form.

Carrying off a Sawhney creation requires confidence and attitude, which, according to him, modern-day women have in good measure. His Apala range includes earrings, ear cuffs, finger rings, bangles, bracelets, neck pieces, head pieces, anklet and more. His haathphool is more like a forearm-phool - the entire forearm from beneath the finger to the elbow is covered with a n elaborately-designed silver piece.

The experimental designs have drawn the attention of actors such as Deepika Padukone, Vidya Balan, Shraddha Kapoor, Mugdha Godse, Lara Dutta, Lisa Haydon and Sunny Leone and models Shalini Kochchar and Deepti Gujral. Bikers too are known to go for them.

The jewellery isn't restricted to white silver. He mixes, plates, oxidises, and also adds studs and beads to get eye-catching pieces. Both precious and semi-precious gems are used, which is why, like the creations, the prices vary from Rs 2,000 to Rs 5 lakh apiece. Some of the pieces are plated in 22 carat gold. The creations are currently available at his stores in New Delhi's Hauz Khas Village and DLF Galleria in Gurgaon.