Camping in Vinitaly

The world’s largest wine fair is a celebration of la dolce vita italiana

It’s not just the world’s single largest wine fair (4,200 exhibitors spread over one square kilometre of covered space; 150,000 visitors over five days). It’s a celebration of la dolce vita italiana, with 4,000 wine labels, 5,000 different olive oils, 1,000 balsamic vinegars, Italian meats and cheeses to die for, and the best wine-making machinery in the world.

Vinitaly 2010 is being held from April 8-12 at Verona, at the north-eastern end of Italy, and I’ve come in a week earlier as one of the 105 judges who will taste and pass judgement on the 3,600-odd wines entered for the International Wine Competition. The winners (gold, silver, bronze or commendation) will have a definite edge over their un-rated competitors: after all, with so many wines coming to market each year, both the trade and consumers need help and guidance.

The International Wine Competition at Vinitaly is now in its 18th year, and is organised jointly by Veronafiere and the Italian Trade Commission; the latter’s worldwide offices have done a terrific job getting hold of 63 international judges (both journalists and wine experts) from 33 countries, and coordinating their travel and accommodation in Verona. Another 42 Italian winemakers complete the 21 panels of five persons each. Each judge will taste over 200 samples over the five days of the competition.

The wine-tasting process followed at this competition is intense, a theatrical show, with 21 sommeliers stepping out in a coordinated pouring of each wine, each action synchronised by Master of Ceremonies Giuseppe Martelli. All wine samples are bagged and anonymous: this is a “double-blind” format where even the grape or the country of origin of the wines is hidden, and us hacks have to hustle to keep pace.

Verona is, of course, also the venue of William Shakespeare’s timeless classic Romeo and Juliet and the old city is as bustling with tourists as any place in Europe.

It abounds in churches hundreds of years old; sidewalk cafés line the narrow twisting streets, and there’s nary the sound of a horn: Continental courtesy prevails, never mind the reputation Italians have for aggressive driving.

Italy is the second-largest wine producer in the world (after France), and despite consuming nearly 50 litres per capita it is also the world’s largest wine exporter, having sent 1.7 billion litres of wine to thirsty consumers worldwide in 2009. To put things in perspective: the total wine market in India in 2009-10 will be about 15 million litres — including cheap wines like Golconda and Goan ports. It’s no wonder that so much time, effort and funds are invested in promoting wines — a very professional effort that has to be lauded.

Wines I’ve been drinking: The tasting included three Recioto wines — sweet red wines from the Veneto area that have an absolutely unique taste, and which are just not available in India.

I could tell you the names, but then I’d have to kill you.

Cin Cin.

[Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant]