German Rieslings

THE WINE CLUB

If there’s one wine that was forecast to pair really well with Indian cuisines - and which has somehow never taken off in India - it is the Riesling.

Perhaps, it’s that few halfway decent Rieslings have, so far, been available (except in star hotels). Or, perhaps, it’s the incipient snobbery associated with having a wine perceived as “just being sweet” (Chenin Blancs also suffer from this problem). Or maybe, the long, complicated labels associated with this wine just intimidate potential consumers. Whatever the reason, if you were to offer a Riesling and almost any other white (except perhaps a Gewürztraminer) at your next party, chances are the Riesling would largely be left alone.

That’s a pity because Rieslings are one of the most elegant wines, with the most heavenly aroma profile.

The Riesling grape is a cold-climate vine that grows well in Germany and the Alsace region of France, and produces highly aromatic wines — well-made Rieslings have a crisp flowery character with notes of honey and figs, and develop hints of petrol (yes!) with age. The high natural acidity balances the sweetness, and both combine well to offset most spicy and chilli-hot cuisines — particularly as most Rieslings are low-alcohol wines.

But hope is at hand in the form of two German Rieslings that have found a place in the Wine Spectator’s 2008 Top 100 wines: St-Urbans-Hof Riesling Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2007 (# 56, 90 points) and Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett Mosel Piesporter Goldtropfchen 2007 (# 79, also 90 points). See what I mean by long, complicated names? Both are now available in India.

The Urbans-Hof is semi-dry, rich, firm, and complex, with a mix of grapefruit, vanilla, cream, slate, and spice aromas and a crisp balanced taste that has good length. The price has risen sharply from Rs 1,050 to Rs 1,770 in Bangalore — blame the falling rupee exchange rate and new taxes. The Kesselstatt Josephshofer Spatlese 2003 (Rs 2,800 in Bangalore) that I tasted was fairly sweet yet balanced, full-bodied, aromatic and spicy, yet quite elegant with intense aromas of herbs, peaches, ripe fruits and herbs and a nice long finish.

Australia also makes some nice Rieslings (Sacred Hill, for instance, at Rs 990 in Bangalore), and, of course, places like Austria have loads of great sweet whites made from grapes you’ve never heard of (Gruner Veltliner, Muller-Thurgau) and probably wouldn’t want to risk even in a blizzard!

Which brings me back to my original query: what is it that keeps Indian wine aficionados away from Rieslings? Taste, image, price, or long names? (Ah, the simplicity of “Sacred Hill Riesling”!) But seriously, try a good Riesling before you knock the lot — guaranteed it will “knock your socks off”!

Zum Wohl! And a Happy 2009 to all!

(al.chandra@gmail.com)