The Grenache grape

This widely-used red grape has produced many a ‘rock star’ wine over the past decade.

The 24th of September is ‘International Grenache Day’ — a bit of a marketing never does any harm, so this is as good an excuse as any to talk about the grape. While comparatively unknown in India, Grenache is one of the most widely-planted red wine grape varieties worldwide, and trails only Merlot and Syrah in total acreage and tonnage.

The grape (called ‘Garnacha’ in Spain) probably originated in Spain and made its way to France in the 1800s, where it is best known as one of the principal constituents of Chateauneuf-du -Pape. It is widely planted in the Languedoc-Roussillon area of Southern France and the Priorat and Rioja areas of Spain, where its wine is usually blended with that from other grapes like Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsaut. It is also the grape used to produce some of the best-known Rose’ wines of Tavel and Lirac (in the Rhone Valley) and of the Provence area of coastal southern France.

There are a variety of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes du Rhone wines available in India, ranging from the Caves St Pierre, Georges Dubueuf, Paul Jaboulet Aine, Albert Bichot and Bouchards to the superlative E Guigal. Spain giant Torres probably has a Rioja (which is mostly Tempranillo, but may have 15-30 per cent Grenache) or two in their line-up here, but the only Indian Grenache is Sula’s Mosaic Grenache Syrah, affordable and surprisingly drinkable.

Many Grenache-based wines from the Priorat (near Barcelona) have become international ‘rock stars’ in the past 10 years. The area has very old bush vines (20-60 years old) planted on steep slopes having poor soil, and the climate is hot, with little rainfall. This results in extremely low grape yields (half to one ton per acre is common, compared to a norm of 4-8 tonnes per acre in India), and the best Priorat wines are very dark, concentrated and complex, with strong tannins, and good aging potential.

Unfortunately, there are no Priorat wines available in India as yet. In fact, Spanish wines are terribly under represented, something that presents an opportunity for new importers looking to differentiate their product portfolio.

Grenache is also grown in Australia, where again it is generally used in GSM (Grenache, Shiraz and Mouverdre) blends. Australian Grenache wines are still quite rare in India, and the only such example I know of is the 90-point Rolf Binder Halliwell Shiraz Grenache from the Barossa Valley imported by Wine park, Mumbai.

Last (but not least) is California, where the Rhone Ranger movement has spearheaded a move towards better-quality wines using 22 grape varieties originating in the Rhone valley, principally Grenache and Syrah. The wineries in this movement include iconic labels like Bonny Doon, Alban, Sine Qua Non, and Tablas Creek, and despite being located in the Central Coast are giving Napa Valley wines a run for their money.

Wines I've Been Drinking: Coincidentally the Rolf Binder Halliwell Barossa Shiraz-Grenache 2006. The wine’s deep dark red colour presaged a complex cherry and berry aroma, spicy full-bodied taste and balanced tannins. Robert Parker gives it 91+ points, worth every penny of the Rs 2,100 it retails at (Bangalore price).

Cheers, Mate!

[Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant]