A gastronomic journey through the North far removed from convention

Loya, the latest offering by Indian Hotels at Taj Palace, New Delhi, offers a confluence of flavours from the foothills of Himalayas, the fields of Punjab, the Gangetic plains, and snow-laden Kashmir

Think North Indian cuisine and you think paneer or your choice of meat in orange gravies, some kaali dal, breads laced with butter and garlic. But shed those assumptions when you enter Loya, the latest offering by Indian Hotels Company (IHCL) at Taj Palace, New Delhi.

A confluence of flavours from the foothills of Himalayas – Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, the fields of Punjab, the Gangetic plains, and snow-laden Kashmir is on the menu at Loya — which literally translates to a festive gathering. 

The ornate brass lanterns, carved window panels inspired by Mughal architecture, and the golden thaals and sieves placed on the table lend an opulent touch to the restaurant. The colourful tapestry, paintings of vibrant bazaar scenes from medieval times, and the seating inspired by the khaat bring with them a sense of ease, all promising a festive and authentic North Indian culinary experience.

Entering from the grand doors right across you is the bar. Loya offers a unique cocktail programme, Paanch -- inspired by the five elements. On offer is spiced whisky, the betel nut infused Indus gin and tonic among others.
 

Seated a little away from the bar, we jump to starters. First on the table is the tangy timbri jheenga-- marinated prawns served with a bhang jeera chutney from the foothills of the Himalayas. Along with it is a favourite from Himachali homes — sepu vadi, complete with a crisp garnish of lotus stem.

Right across the seating area is the kitchen — with glass panels, allowing patrons a clear view of what goes on on the other side. On display are the techniques of dungaar or the art of smoking, dum or slow cooking, a sigdi or cooking over coal. Look long enough and you’ll see masalas being pounded on a sil-batta or baghar, tempering spices in hot oil, in action.

 

What Loya offers is not just a gastronomic journey through the North, but a taste of home, complete with wholesome and locally sourced ingredients — a trend in the culinary world that the pandemic has made a strong case for.

Here the chefs were sent to the fields of Punjab and to the lofty Himalayas to help make the experience as authentic as possible. “We would wake up at ungodly hours to reach small dhabas in Punjab to learn the recipes. In Kashmir, we attended weddings to pick up on recipes for dishes that are only prepared for the wedding festivities,” a chef at the restaurant tells me.

The result is delicious. We move to the main course with kangra khodiya gosht, a special pahadi mutton curry made with curd and charred walnut shells that lend the dish its dark colour. The gol paratha goes perfectly with the murgh gosht ki pasliyan, a dish with a marinade of spices, made using a sil batta, that refuses to leave the meat.

The pahadi dal jakhiya – a mix of masoor and arhar dal — is light on the palate. The pungent ori raita finds a special mention and is the perfect accompaniment to the main course.

It is the desserts that really bring the experience a full circle. gud-ki-maan, a sweet thick piece of bread that comes with an almond and cashew kheer takes me back to my UP roots and my grandmother’s thekua on a winter evening. The kulfi pop sampler – in flavours ranging from rose to cardamom coated in a Parle -G crumble is the perfect nostalgic note to end the meal on.

My personal favourite part of the night was a little DIY experience that came at the end. A platter with betel nuts, dried ginger, mishri, and a mortar and pestle-- mukhwaas whichever way you like.

The experience, four years in making, is wholesome, nostalgic, and comforting. Limited to Delhi for now, the concept will be launched soon in Bengaluru and Mumbai within a year before it is taken to other cities.
Disclosure: The author availed of the food hospitality of Taj Palace, New Delhi at the time of writing this report