Tasting Oban's famous whisky and enjoying the seafood capital of Scotland

Seagulls squawk by the shore as we take in the view of Oban Bay, the dark blue waters of the Firth of Lorn overlooking the islands of Mull, Kerrera and Lismore, writes Geetanjali Krishna

I sip a dram of honey-hued liquid, feeling its warmth spread through me. The notes are distinctive — slightly smoky, slightly malty, slightly dry. “Well?” asks the barkeep. “What do you think of it?” A breeze blows in from the sea, and its brininess finds echoes on my palate. I’ve tasted it before but, somehow, drinking Oban whisky in the distillery where it has been brewed and aged adds an entirely new dimension to the experience. Before I can drain the dram, it’s time for the distillery tour.

Time seems to have stood still inside, I muse, as we walk past ancient stone walls and burnished copper stills. Oban remains an incredibly small operation, producing about 660,000 litres of alcohol a year (the spanking new Macallan distillery not far from here produces 11 million litres). As we walk around, listening to the story of the birth of the Oban distillery in the late 1700s, I wonder if its founders, brothers John and Hugh Stevenson, could have ever imagined that it would put this tiny fishing hamlet plumb at the centre of the single malt whisky map of Scotland. A whisky tasting is on the menu as well, and we eventually emerge well-fortified into the blinding sunlight.

Seagulls squawk by the shore as we take in the view of Oban Bay, the dark blue waters of the Firth of Lorn overlooking the islands of Mull, Kerrera and Lismore. The weather is miraculously sunny for a town that has an average of 305 rainy days a year — the papers call it a heat wave. Apparently, the town hasn’t seen any rain for the past two months, probably a gloomy sign of climate change. The touristy town isn’t complaining, however, and the seaside promenade is bustling with holiday-makers enjoying the sun. Directly above us is McCaig’s Folly, a Colosseum lookalike that was commissioned by a local merchant to drum up employment in the area but was abandoned after he died. Today, the structure offers wonderful views and is a quiet vantage point to get away from the busy town. The ferry terminal, from which boats depart regularly for the Inner and Outer Hebrides, is buzzing not only with tourists but also travellers going onward to the Highlands.

Castle Stalker, a tower house north of Oban

But our thoughts are on lunch, especially as Oban is reputed to be the seafood capital of Scotland. At the highly rated Oban Seafood Hut, which is little more than a small seafood stall, we carry out heaping trays of fresh scallops, mussels steamed in white wine and lobster all crisp and pink from the grill, and eat our lunch on a bench watching the world go about its business.

Along the waterfront

They say that Queen Victoria described Oban as “one of the finest spots we have ever seen”. Its pubs, restaurants and bright promenade are certainly a change from the Scottish Highlands, which seem wilder and untamed in comparison. Over the next few days, we find that Oban has fine walking and hiking trails into the Scottish countryside. Most of the hills in this part of the world overlook the sea, and even less energetic hikes yield spectacular views. Ben Lora, for instance, is just outside Oban and a mere 45-minute hike through boggy fields, purple heather and masses of summer flowers brings us to a spot overlooking Ardmucknish Bay with great views of lush pine forests and the Isle of Mull.

The Oban distillery

Our last meal in Oban is at the iconic Oban Fish & Chip Shop, a favourite of locals and tourists alike. How could we leave the seafood capital of Scotland without visiting the chippy shop that has wowed even Rick Stein, Britain’s favourite celebrity chef? The haddock is so fresh I can taste the sea in it. Its crisp batter coating is a work of cholesterol-laden art that makes all diets fly out of the window. Outside, seagulls scrap noisily over scraps. I watch them, loath to leave. But leave we must, for it’s time for our flight back to India from Glasgow. At least we have a couple of Oban whiskies in our suitcases, to remind us of the sunny days spent in one of the world’s great seafood capitals.

Getting there
 

Oban is around three hours by car, coach or train from Glasgow or Edinburgh and the scenery along the way is breathtaking. It also has a domestic airport with flights to/from London and other parts of Scotland. We stayed at the excellent Glinrigh Guesthouse (about Rs 12,000 a night with breakfast). For meals, you can’t go wrong at Oban Fish and Chip and Oban Seafood Hut. Book the Oban distillery tour in advance, especially if travelling in the summer.