"It reminds me of my childhood in India where you'd put up mosquito nets at night, but with a little glitter in it," the 41-year-old designer said.
"It's sheer, but it drapes beautifully, so I'm trying to figure out how to utilise it."
Such scenes of creative experimentation are unfolding in fashion houses big and small in the run-up to the Spring 2014 collections that start coming down the runway in New York on Thursday.
Mohapatra will send out his latest creations for the namesake label on September 11, but if he's feeling the pressure, he doesn't show it.
In a black T-shirt, jeans and sneakers, he's a serene presence in the 11th floor studio/showroom/atelier where he employs seven people full time, up from two when he started out nearly five years ago.
"It's been really quite an interesting journey," he told AFP one recent morning. "As long as you're open to learning, then you can really build something."
What he calls "a detour in my life" led him in 1996 to university in the western US state of Utah, where he picked up a graduate degree in economics.
Moving to New York, he enrolled in the Fashion Institute of Technology, won its Critic's Award for Best Evening Wear Designer in his senior year, interned at Halston, then spent eight years as design director at J Mendel.
For this season, Mohapatra is taking inspiration from Wendy Whelan, a close friend who is reinventing herself through modern dance at the age of 41 after retiring as principal dancer with the New York City Ballet.
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