The man sat quietly in a corner of the club’s dining room. He was tall and powerfully built. The tuxedo fell smoothly down his shoulders. The unmistakable bulge under his left armpit gave away the .32 Webley & Scott.
The dining room was near empty. He ate quietly. Rice, and ladles of liquid gold with nuggets — a classic prawn malai curry. The aroma wafting up was complex, silky even. Coconut flesh, a whisper of cinnamon, cardamoms, and crushed green stems of green coriander.
The man nodded appreciatively. He asked the attendant to call the chef to his table. When he arrived, the man asked him his name. “Sir, Bhakti,” said the chef.
The man said — no, instructed: “Bhakti ji, pack your bags. From tomorrow, you are working for me in my home, and from now on, you will make this prawn malai curry just for me and my family.”
The chef looked shocked, and then smiled. The man was not the kind you argued with. The ‘abduction’ was smooth, as smooth as the gun draw of a top-drawer gunslinger.
The man was my father. The incident happened exactly as above. I know, because I was sitting at the table, a little kid in a little tuxedo of my own. Bhakti ji would go on to cook many memorable prawn malai curries — and much more — the next several years, for us.
I learnt the taste of good life from my old man. And over decades, I have built upon that genetic legacy. I remember as a kid the food paradiso that was Calcutta of yore: Chicken reshmi kebab at Amber; chicken a la Kiev at Sky Room; fried fantail prawns at The Oberoi Grand.
1. Poached white fish served over a quinoa base, finished with a light citrus emulsion and topped with crisp fish skin and an edible flower (360, Dubrovnik); 2. Fresh scallop served in its shell, topped with caviar and a light beurre blanc, presented over seaweed (Alain Ducasse, London); 3. Marinated tuna with citrus-infused broth, avocado, capers, and delicate floral garnishes (La Degustation, Prague)
I have eaten in quite unbelievably good restaurants in India, and across the world, but because of recency bias, I will fixate on my food peregrinations in the past 3-4 years.
I start in no particular order, but like a waterfall, I suspect I will end up with the best.
In a lush garden lies Steirereck — a Michelin 3-star restaurant, ranked among the top 50 of the world, with lulling views of vegetation. We ate the degustation menu, which had far too many heavy hitters to list, but two stood out:
- Fish, char-cooked in beeswax with yellow beetroot, pollen and cream: A house classic that’s awe-inspiring, where fresh fish is gently cooked in beeswax at the table — fragrant, delicate, and subtle.
- Sturgeon with gin-infused cornel cherries, cauliflower and pericon: Charcoal-grilled sturgeon paired with unique preserved cherries and creamy cauliflower preparations — rich, nuanced, and beautifully balanced.
Chef Heinz Reitbauer has created something quite extraordinary at Steirereck.
Prague is quite a food city. I ate two or three different Czech goulashes, the first cousin of the Hungarian goulash, one of my top favourite comfort meat dishes. They were all similarly outstanding.
But then came Field, chef Radek Kašpárek’s masterpiece. A Michelin 1-star restaurant.
You walk through dark streets at 8 pm on a cold night. The crumbling charm of Central Europe is all around you: The slightly defaced buildings, the chipped pavement stones. Your breath hangs like an apparition in front of your face.
You feel like James Bond, with or without the blonde.
And then you reach Field. The 10-course tasting menu is enough for two days of eating:
- Eel with pear, horseradish and dill: A delicate opening with briny complexity.
- Caviar with Gran Moravia cheese, Jerusalem artichoke and kefir: Rich, creamy, and sweet-earthy.
- Pike perch with snail, fennel and Noilly Prat: Seafood finesse with herbal brightness.
- Duck with plum, black garlic and verbena: A moist, savoury centrepiece with aromatic lift.
- Fallow deer with mushrooms, truffle and chokeberry: Gamey elegance and depth.
- Pumpkin with hazelnut and spice bread: A cozy vegetal note before dessert.
Before I exit Prague, a mention of La Degustation must be made. Just for a beef dish. They cut the beef into slices that are probably no more than 200 microns. They sandwich each layer between potato mash. This way, it becomes like an eclair that is around three inches long. Touch it with a fork. Each layer falls off like individual dominoes. It is quite a spectacular display of kitchen art.
London Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
A Michelin 3-star restaurant, it is in my favourite spot of London, where I have spent many an evening running in Hyde Park, and then strolling past the Dorchester.
Two dishes stood out for me here:
- Hand-dived scallop, citrus beurre blanc and Kristal caviar: A delicate scallop course elevated with bright citrus, luxurious caviar and refined sauce technique.
- Native lobster medallions with artichoke and seasonal accents: It’s a succulent lobster dish, prepared to perfection, with artichoke — a balance of richness and freshness.
Sketch, Mayfair
Over-the-top decor, funky, un-London like. It’s multiple food playgrounds plus art, music, DJ, and museum.
We ate a sunny-day lunch, between two days of the July Lord’s India-England Test, a game we should have won. Sketch was the turf that provided the balm, which Lord’s sadly didn’t. We ate well.
- The delica pumpkin and honey velouté:
- Super smooth pumpkin soup with a sweet-savoury lift from honey.
- Twice-baked haddock soufflé: Light, fluffy, and elegant, with confit tomatoes and sesame notes.
- Chantilly lace (black rice and lobster bisque): Rich bisque meets delicate textures and creamy accents.
- Arctic char in Kalamansi butter: A citrus-buttered fish course that represents Sketch’s seasonal rhythm.
I forget the rest of what we ate because we were overpowered by the somatic inundation. We staggered back to our apartment
and slept.
Tucked away in a Melbourne alley, Tonka is modern Indian.
My love for paan found expression through quite another use of betel leaves:
- Crispy crystal bay prawn betel leaf:
- Fresh prawn perched on vibrant betel leaf with moilee and lehsun (garlic) chutney — a zesty, bright opener that marries texture and flavour.
- And since I deign to eat vegetarian every once in a while, the eggplant Malabar curry was outstanding: Velvety, spice-infused eggplant with tempura enoki — a standout vegetarian main with layered textures.
Dubrovnik, Croatia 360 - Michelin one-star. Mediaeval setting in a fort on the sea. The food? Well, it merits a whole article:
- n Snapper with beurre blanc, shellfish sauce and mussel/red shrimp cappuccino: Seafood with creamy, luxe sauces and rich marine flavours.
- n Scampi in vermicelli with Jerusalem artichoke foam: Playful texture contrasts and deep flavour.
Nautika Historic stone walls + sea breeze + boats passing by + candlelit tables = chef’s-kiss perfect.
They give you around 10 types of olive oils and several kinds of breads to try them with. All of it, native produce. Croatian olive oils were a revelation: Very spicy on the palate, perfect for us Indians.
- We had a dalmatian black risotto: Squid-ink risotto with tender cuttlefish — silky, briny, deeply satisfying. Makes your teeth go black.
- Grilled Adriatic fish (fresh catch): Whole fish, like sea bass or gilt-head bream, grilled simply and served with seasonal sides — all about the sea’s purity.
We had a degustation menu at this Michelin-star restaurant. And in the third course, we had quite an unbelievable scallop in mushroom sauce. We then asked the captain to repeat this as the 7th course, instead of the veal. They agreed!
Renommée, Yerevan
This does not have a Michelin star. But that is simply because Armenia (like India) does not pay Michelin to rate its restaurants.
However, I can safely say that of all the fine dining (non-Indian) restaurants I have eaten at in the last four years, Renommée takes the No. 1 spot.
The experience itself is surreal. It’s a secret society-type setting: You sit in a walled-off enclosure. A tall man in a Wehrmacht-type coat stands soundlessly. He whispers into his wrist microphone for the courses to arrive.
The gold leaf-encrusted pat of butter with pumpernickel bread starts the parade of Chef Karen Khachatryan.
They come thick and fast.
- Beetroot with passion fruit and goat cheese: Earthiness balanced by bright acidity.
- BBQ aubergine: Minimalist but deeply flavoured grilled vegetable course.
- Sterlet with vegetables and Armenian greens: Delicate white fish with fresh, herbal accents.
- Quail with truffles and Jerusalem artichoke purée: Rich game and earthy luxury.
- Etchmiadzin soup: An elevated take on a traditional Armenian favourite.
- Oxtails with celery root and truffle: Robust, slow-cooked depth with aromatic truffle.
- Sun-baked apricot with almonds: Bright, local fruit spotlighted.
- Cheesecake with sturgeon and black caviar: A luxurious twist on sweet/savoury expectations.
- Chocolate with Dilijan truffle and white mushroom: Surprising dessert with layered textures and flavours.
It lasts 3-4 hours. I wish it could last forever.
San Sebastian, Spain San Sebastian has more Michelin star restaurants per square km than any other city in the world. The city itself is lyrical. I ate at probably 10 different places in a week. I give you three:
Arzak
Legendary 3-Michelin-starred institution, blending innovation and Basque tradition; often cited as one of Spain’s most influential restaurants.
Akelarre restaurant by Pedro Subijana
Another 3-star powerhouse with panoramic sea views, refined Basque cuisine and meticulous technique.
Amelia by Paulo Airaudo
Two Michelin stars; contemporary tasting menu fusing global influences with Basque ingredients. Of course, try San Sebastian cheesecake at each place. It’s quite something else.
Dubai, UAE Dubai has more fine dining restaurants than sand on the beach. However, I have been largely underwhelmed by that segment. You can eat much better in Europe and Asia.
But, it’s in the street-level food that Dubai cuts into a league of its own.
Butt Karahi
A Pakistani joint in Deira. I have eaten there a dozen times. Each time the same: Country chicken, barra, goat meat. It’s simple, whole-souled, earthy food. You will go back for more.
Revelry
A mid-market Indian fusion restaurant in Dubai Hills. Extremely innovative. Eat the crab meat there. You can thank me later.
Calicut Paragon and Calicut Notebook
I love Kerala and its food. And truth be told, you get better Kerala food in Dubai than in Kerala.
These two restaurants are unpretentious. You can eat like a prince for 100 UAE dirham. For two, that is. Just eat five types of fish starters. The names are unpronounceable, and the taste unforgettable.
Also, try getting Calicut Paragon to do your next home party. They did my new year’s eve party. And a very multinational crowd, with some haute cuisine chefs attending, was floored.
Meat & Mackerel
An upscale offshoot of Calicut Paragon, this is nouvelle Indian cuisine. Try the flattened lamb and various prawns.
Mythos
In my opinion, with Avli by Tashas, this is the best Greek restaurant in Dubai — and priced around 80 per cent less than Avli, so that helps! Try the slow-cooked lamb, the dips, and the surprisingly good wine list.
Mumbai, India The greatest food city in the world.
No kidding.
Excellensea
Start with Excellensea near the Reserve Bank of India, in that soulful area: Ballard Estate. I have been a regular for 35 years. I will be a regular for the next 55. Try the prawn butter garlic, and lobster thermidor. It leaves the overhyped Trishna in the dust.
Otra
Modern Mexican. I don’t like Mexican food, but I love it at buzzy Otra, by chef Alex Sanchez, a Puerto Rican who, in my view, is as talented as Ricky Martin!
The Bombay Canteen
I don’t need to say much, beyond that if and when I get a reservation, I take it. I would fly down from Dubai just to eat there. The fact that the menu changes fairly often adds to the suspense. A velouté I ate a few months ago is no longer there. But what has replaced it is better!
Neuma
A beautiful setting in a cottage in Colaba, where the iconic Indigo, founded by chef Rahul Akerkar, earlier resided. Neuma is stylish. Its mushroom brulee is rakish.
With this, I come to what’s in my simply wrought opinion, the best restaurant in the world. (As you probably know by now, I do know a bit about this stuff.)
The Table
It has been my favourite for the last 15 years, even after the departure of chef Alex Sanchez, who went on to start Americano and Otra.
The Table, Colaba, redefines what good food is: It takes the average to the sublime. A San Sebastian cheesecake at The Table trumps anything you will eat in, well, San Sebastian.
Their small plates are what I normally go for because you can choose from a dozen and more. And then I leap straight to the desserts. (This, in any case, is a good eating-out tip: Most restaurants have their maximum creativity focused on the appetizers and then on the desserts. The main courses are generally not creative.)
4. Gently poached trout with herb oil and a light cream sauce (La Degustation, Prague); 5. Chocolate truffle with hazelnut praline, gold leaf, and silky nut cream (360, Dubrovnik ); 6. Crispy lamb sweetbreads served over creamy purée with a spiced red sauce and fresh chives (Revelry, Dubai); 7. Seared beef tenderloin with a rich reduction, crisp vegetable chip, and root vegetable purée (Akelarre, San Sebastian); 8. Stuffed zucchini flower with baby vegetables, zucchini ribbons, and a vibrant green herb sauce (Alain Ducasse, London)
The small plates change often, it seems (I go there every two months, so I know!)
There are the ribs, the beetroot salad, the paté on Melba toast, and so many others that my memory fails me. In any case, whatever they do is a work of art, so why choose favourites.
The denouement
The list I give above is a work continually in process. I remain fit and I eat sparingly 80 per cent of the time, precisely because I want to eat what I want and where I want 20 per cent of the time.
And I do so wish that I had the chutzpah to abduct any — or all — of the chefs above. Just like my old man did.
Bonus eating-out tip
Start with a teaspoon of olive oil. This will blunt the insulin spike. Then, go for fibre via salads, and protein — in that order. Have some apple cider vinegar before you leave for the restaurant. And after you finish eating, go to the restroom and do 20 squats. Yes, squats. On the way back, if you are sitting in the back seat of the car, do the soleus raise. You will find a miraculous change in your post-eating blood glucose, all of it, which will make you ready for your next eating out.
The writer is a well-known investor, serial entrepreneur, and founder of GQuant Investech
 "Chefs I wish I could kidnap: A culinary map of the world's finest kitchens")
