For most of its life, Ayodhya has lived in the shadows of its more glamorous cousin Banaras, the go-to destination for moksha-seeking spiritual travellers from all over the world. But the city that Valmiki immortalised in his epic poem Ramayana is getting a grand makeover. With the Ram temple at its centre and the credentials as the birthplace of Rama to seal its divine status, it is being reimagined as the Mecca of the Hindus. While this sets it up as a worthy challenger to Banaras’s superstar status on the pilgrim trail, the layered history and multicultural ethos of Ayodhya
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