Food of the Frontier: Why Indians love this cuisine of slow cooking

Food from Pakistan's mountainous province is tender and avoids spices

“Where the men are tough but the lamb is tender”. Fans say that about food from Pakistan’s Northwest Frontier Province (now Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Large chunks of meat or vegetables are sparsely marinated and slow-cooked in a tandoor at high temperature. The use of spices is balanced to enhance the natural flavours of the ingredients. 

"What sets it apart is its distinctive cooking technique, characterised by minimal marination and slow-cooking at high temperatures, which brings out the inherent flavours of the ingredients,” says Zeeshan Ali, a food and hospitality consultant in Delhi.

“The judicious use of spices allows the meat to shine, without being overpowered by bold seasonings. This approach not only preserves the nutritional value of the dishes but also makes them wholesome and delectable.” Ali’s favourites in Frontier food include the Mutton Rezala, Dal Makhani, Raan e Alishan, and Pathar kebabs.

Frontier cooking is simple, uses fresh ingredients and eschews heavy sauces. Dishes use yogurt as a base for marination, combined with spices like cumin, coriander, and garam masala. The marination infuses flavours and make the meat soft and succulent. 

The Ashok Hotel in Delhi recently hosted a Khyber Ki Peshkash food festival with the Kohat platter comprising Paneer Tikka, Tandoori Khumb and Subz e Seekh priced at Rs 1,200. The Khyber platter of fish tikka, Murg Hazarvi Tikka and Chapli Kebab was served for Rs 1,700. The Raan Alishaan combo meal cost Rs 2,500.

Patthar Ka Kebab and Chapli Kebab may seem like simple dishes but the technique and ingredients used to cook them “stand out”, says Sanjay, executive chef at The Ashok who uses a single name. 

“These dishes are not just about the flavours, they are about the experience. The hot stone and flat grill cooking methods add a unique element to the dish, making it an interactive experience for diners. Apart from the cooking methods, what sets these dishes apart is the quality of the ingredients used,” he says.

Bukhara, ITC Maurya, Peshawri - ITC Sonar, Khyber, Zaffran, Dum Pukht, Indian Accent, Kebabs & Kurries and Gulati’s are some of the popular restaurants serving this cuisine. 

"At Gulati’s, our bestselling dishes in Northwest Frontier cuisine include the renowned Butter Chicken, Dal Makhani, Biryanis and our flavorful Kebabs. Over the years, we have observed a steady increase in the demand for Frontier food as more people seek out authentic, hearty meals. To cater to contemporary tastes, we've introduced lighter and healthier options," said Namit Gulati, owner of Gulati restaurants in Delhi and Gurgaon.

Sanjeev Kapoor, a chef, television presenter and entrepreneur, says his father was born in Peshawar in the Frontier. “So, I have, in some sense, the right legacy to talk about the Northwest Frontier. My first job was in ITDC’s Ashok group of hotels. I was lucky to be trained there in Northwest Frontier food. I think the influence of open spitfire cooking, cooking on charcoal, cooking on wood, meats cooked like that, whether cooked in open fire or cooked in tandoor, I think that this is the real essence.”

“Today how the spices, the way it is cooked is very different from what you would actually get there in that (Frontier) region. It's actually mostly boiled, non-spicy food is what people eat there – meats and vegetables cooked together, it's kind of a stew, which is not at all spicy and bland. So that's largely the influence of real Northwest Frontier cuisine. In India, we popularised tandoori kebabs and that worked with the Indian spices.” 

Kapoor spoke about the two original Frontier dishes: Hazarwi kebab and Banno kebab. Hazarvi kebab is made with cream and chicken breast; cooking Banno is finished with egg. “They continue to be popular. And of course, dal which we call as maa ki dal, is called marsh there (Frontier). It's black urad that became popular with tomato and ghee and butter.”

The kali dal is the longest cooked dal in the world. The combination of whole black lentils (urad dal), tomatoes, ginger and garlic — is cooked and simmered over the slow coal fire of the tandoor overnight for 18 hours at a stretch!

There is also a distinct culture of serving Northwest Frontier cuisine. “While dining, guests are encouraged to eat with their hands to experience the food through all their senses. Cutlery is not laid out on the table, and only provided if asked for and crockery made of copper/heavy steel thalis, adds to the rustic charm,” says Asmita Nagpal, a food blogger in Mumbai.

Restaurant	City	Approx. cost for 2 in Rs
Bukhara, ITC Maurya	Delhi	8,000
Frontier, The Ashok	Delhi	4,000
Khyber	Mumbai	3,000
Zaffran	Mumbai	2,000
Dum Pukht, ITC Maurya	Delhi	8,000
Peshawri, ITC Sonar	Kolkata	3,000
Kebabs & Kurries, ITC Hotel	Bengaluru	4,500
Barbeque Nation	Multiple cities	2,500
Indian Accent	New Delhi	6,000