 "Deepika Padukone")
With brides spending lakhs on custom-designed embellished ensembles, jewellery plays a pivotal role in complementing these opulent outfits. From vintage pieces to those that express individuality, there is something for every bride and groom. While many pieces are being designed for long-term use and versatility, classic gems continue to be seen as investments.
Neety Singh, who started crafting jewellery 18 years ago, says while brides once revamped their mothers’ jewellery, there’s now a dramatic shift in preferences. Bollywood sets trends, with brides favouring diamonds or polkis in a “big white look”. “Functions are divided — cocktails call for rubies and emeralds, while receptions demand diamonds,” she says.
Brides today, she adds, prefer a cleaner, streamlined look, often centred around a single statement neckpiece. The rise of rare stones such as turquoise, tanzanite, and sapphire is also evident, with destination weddings blending traditional Indian ethos with a Western approach. She recounts a bride who, inspired by a Bollywood actor, transformed a vintage heirloom into a headband. “The highlight is not design but longevity, thus straight lines are preferred,” she adds.
For example, chokers are divided into two, so that each part can be worn separately. Similarly, cuffs can later be turned into necklaces.
For grooms, a must-have is the kalgi, a turban pin that brides later convert into necklace. Brooches with animal motifs, pearl necklaces, and cufflinks with meenakari work remain popular. Hand jewellery (four finger ring-attached to a bangle), jhoomar, pasa, waistbands and armlets have also made a comeback.
Tiara Dhody, a designer inspired by her mother, Queenie Dhody, says bejewelled feather-shaped armlets, with rubies and gold, hair clips with Swarovski, and gold coin necklaces are in demand. For grooms, on offer are multi-layered gold chains that are lighter and modern.
Jeweller Ishu Datwani of Anmol Jewellers, who has been in the industry for 40 years, says bigger diamonds have gained favour, with small stones now seen as passé. “Coloured stones like tourmalines and Burmese rubies are trending.” He notes that NRI brides prefer thinner diamond necklaces, while Indian brides opt for larger pieces.
Datwani’s latest creations feature elephant motifs and lotus-inspired pieces, a tribute to his late friend, designer Rohit Bal. “Engagement rings are often oval-shaped solitaires that can go up to 5 carats,” he adds.
The Ambani family’s lavish weddings have set new jewellery trends such as ornate brooches for grooms. “Men don’t want showy jewellery. Gold or platinum bands, which they can wear every day, are sought after,” says Datwani. Also, the bracelet-style mangalsutra, popularised by actor Shilpa Shetty, remains a trend that brides request even today, he adds.
Chand Begum, a heritage brand that started in Lahore in 1865, offers rare antique pieces sourced from global auctions. Kunwar Bahadur Singh, its fourth-generation jeweller, says vintage jewellery remains trend-independent and free from modern treatments that enhance colour artificially. He gives the example of Deepika Padukone who wore an armlet with Burmese white sapphire and a 150-carat ruby in the centre from the Maharaja Ranjeet Singh collection as a choker for the Ambani wedding. And Nita Ambani, who wore a kalgi as a pendant set with Basra pearls. This was a piece once owned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and is estimated to cost over Rs 200 crore. “We source from Sotheby’s to Bonhams,” he says.
Auction houses like AstaGuru offer rare, high-value pieces, often sourced from royal families. Jay Sagar, AstaGuru’s jewellery expert, mentions a 1930s guluband that sold for over Rs 1.5 crore; a Burmese ruby and Basra pearl necklace that fetched Rs 37 lakh; and a European sherwani button set in gold, diamonds and amethyst that went for Rs 11 lakh.
Minal Vazirani, co-founder of auction house Saffronart, says antique jewellery is appreciated not only for its beauty but also for the stories behind each piece. “Modern couples value the legacy these heirlooms carry,” she says, pointing to the rising interest in kundan, meenakari, and polki work. Saffronart’s recent sale of a necklace from the Nizam of Hyderabad’s collection for Rs 1.75 crore underscores the allure of traditional craftsmanship.
Biren Vaidya of House of Rose, which has been crafting jewellery for four decades, adds that Gen Z brides now want their jewellery to coordinate with their entire wedding ensemble, from their outfit to their makeup. “Jewellery must be photo-worthy,” he says. His creations range from diamond sets for sangeets to showstopping emerald and ruby necklaces for receptions. Assisted by his son, Karan, Vaidya, who has crafted jewellery and watches for Versace, Forevermark and Franck Muller, ensures that his designs are comfortable and wearable.
Sandeep Narang of Hazoorilal Jewellers has seen a shift towards wearable bridal jewellery, with uncut polkis and diamonds taking centre stage. Traditional paisley with peacock and floral designs, along with geometric patterns, are popular, as are gold temple designs and colourful gemstones like Colombian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and tanzanites. Brides now prefer diamond sets for their wedding day, he adds.
The big realisation is that couples know what they want in terms of the cut, colour, carats. And jewellers are going all out to give them what their heart desires.
For him & her
Grooms wear jewellery their wives can later use. The sarpech, for example, can later be worn as a brooch. “They are thinking about how they can reuse it,” says Revathi Kant, chief design officer at Titan
Also in are couples’ rings, with single solitaires for him and her set in gold or platinum
Another trend on the rise is the “proposal ring”, where the groom-to-be surprises the bride-to-be with an unplanned trip and a ring, away from the traditional family involvement
