French flavour

Only a few hours’ drive from the city, the erstwhile French colony of Chandannagar is a great weekend destination

At a time when the British established their hold over India and stamped the country with colonial architecture, a small city 30 km north of Kolkata held on to its identity. Chandannagar, barely an hour’s drive from Kolkata, had been a French colony since 1673. And it continued to remain so till February 2, 1951 when the French government ceded the city to India. Earlier called Farasdanga (“Farasi” in Bengali means “French” and “danga” means “land”), Chandannagar retains its distinct French flavour to this day.

The architectural grandeur of British India is left behind as one enters Chandannagar. The tour of the town begins from the strand road, a stone paved riverbank adorned with archaic street lamps and benches. Like other old buildings and structures, these are maintained by the Chandannagar Municipal Corporation. On this road lie some historic French buildings like the Institut de Chandernagor, one of the oldest museums in the region. It was once the residence of the French governor. It was here that the ‘Treaty of Cession’ was signed between the French and the Indian governments. The dining hall, the bedrooms and the offices are adorned with French antiques which speak of the once thriving affluence and power which the town enjoyed despite the British being at its doorstep. Adjacent to this is the St. Joseph’s Convent school which the French government established in 1861 for the native women. Down the alley is the Sacred Heart Church built in 1884 by the then Archbishop of Calcutta.

The other place to visit is the Nandadulal temple, a Krishna temple in the heart of the city.

Chandannagar came into existence after 17th century French tourist Bernuer returned to France and spoke of the wealth he had seen in the land then ruled by the Mughals. King of France, Louis XIV, then sent a formation of French East India Company to India. It landed in Puducherry. Mughal emperor Aurangzeb subsequently granted the French three villages on the bank of river Hoogly. These came to be known as Chandannagar.

The port town also played a significant role during the nationalist movement. It became a safe haven for nationalist leaders because there was no definite extradition treaty between the French and the British governments. It was here, at Prabartak Ashram, that Aurobindo Ghose took shelter when he was on the run from the British. Under a treaty, Indians who worked under the French government — there are 33 of them left — are still given pension by the Indian government.

The once grand colony is now crying for attention. A rickshaw ride through the town exposes the skeletons of the century-old houses which are now deserted and lacking maintenance. “The absence of a plan and the zeal to promote tourism has led to its decline,” says Kalyan Chakrabortty, member of the Heritage Committee, Chandannagar. “Neither the government nor the West Bengal tourism department sanction funds for tourism. We have no choice but to ask the French embassy for help.” On an average around 500 tourists, mostly foreigners, visit in a month. During Jagadhatri Puja, hundreds flock to the old French town. But more needs to be done.

Neemrana Hotels is now planning to invest here. “We have spotted a 300-year-old mansion and if all goes well, we’ll soon have a Neemrana hotel here,” says Francis Wacziarg, co-chairman Neemrana Hotel. As of now, Rabindra Bhavan, which is maintained by the Chandannagar Municipal Corporation, is a place to stay. There is also the Ritzy Manor, the French guest house, and a host of other private hotels.