More than just jewellery

Umesh Ganjam is behind one of the oldest names in heritage jewellery. He takes Abhilasha Ojha through the journey of the brand and how it has evolved.

Umesh Ganjam, towards the end of our conversation, admits that he’s unhappy with the “quality” of his life. “I don’t like it,” he rues while a gentle breeze soothes us at the Italian cultural centre’s café. It’s gorgeous weather, we both agree, sitting in the charming, outer wing of the café. I’m speaking to the jeweller who owns one of the most famous jewellery brands in India. His forefathers began Ganjam in the late 18th century, and now, the brand has, for the very first time in India, organised an exhibition called Cutting the Mirror, in collaboration with Lucca Preziosa and Le Arti Orafe jewellery academy, with 12 jewellery designers from the world over.

But why’s he distressed about his quality of life, I probe. A self-confessed environmentalist, Ganjam (a director with the brand; he joined it in the 1970s when he was only 17 years old) feels that he’d like to be in a world where there’s minimal damage done to natural resources. No cutting of trees, more creation of forests (“Wouldn’t it be wonderful to have cities in the midst of green forests?”) and use of handmade, organic products. That is the sort of life that Ganjam would like to lead.

While most of us struggle to achieve our aims, Ganjam has, at least, made a dent of sorts with his concerns. He lives in Bannerghatta, on the outskirts of Bangalore, where he claims to enjoy his “organic way of life”. It’s the only way by which he escapes — even if temporarily — the madness of city life. And since “jewellery is the art form” that he understands best, Ganjam makes sure to raise the issues concerning the environment, endangered species and constant pressures on our planet through jewellery. For instance, brand Ganjam was formally launched in Tokyo in 2005 through an event called Wings of Love dedicated to the preservation and protection of rare birds and their habitats.

The event was held in collaboration with Japanese designer Kazuo Ogawa and Satya Paul in addition to BirdLife International, an apex body in support of bird protection. “In fact, Ganjam has been the only jewellery brand that was invited to participate in Japan’s celebration of 50 years of Indo-Japanese collaboration in 2002,” explains the jeweller. “We had no plans to expand but, in 2003, we opened the Milan Fashion Show for designer Tarun Tahiliani. A leading bookstore manager noticed our designs and started spreading the word about our brand. Then, one fine evening, he convinced me to show jewellery pieces to some of his discerning clients,” remembers Ganjam.

In that winter of 2003 in Milan, the bookstore’s library section was converted into a jewellery store where a lot of people (including a leading Japanese designer) attended and picked up the jewellery pieces. “Soon the Japanese royalty had become our patrons,” laughs Ganjam, sipping fresh lemonade. “From Bangalore, we had, without any plans, moved smoothly to Milan, to other parts of Europe, to Japan,” he chuckles while I gaze at a cuddly, black cat who suddenly shows up in the café.

I’m particularly fascinated with the historical tales that Ganjam narrates during the course of our conversation. He carries with him a complete catalogue of the brand and moves remarkably in a chronological order, explaining how his forefathers moved from Orissa to Mysore (where they advised the royalty on trade and other issues) before settling in Bangalore in the 18th century.

Ganjam, in Orissa (it means “granary of the world” and has been in the news for having as many as five “crorepati” contestants for this year’s general elections), is the place from where the jewellery brand gets its name. Though the brand is largely traditional (“call it heritage jewellery please,” Ganjam corrects me, loading me with information on how the designs evolved through temple scriptures), the team of 15 designers at Ganjam have started offering contemporary designs too. “Most temples (especially in south India) resemble the structure of a human body... in jewellery too one has to be extra cautious about materials, symbols and designs,” he says. At Ganjam, even today, he points out that designs of necklaces and anklets don’t clash. Why not? “It’s blasphemous,” he says calmly.

One of the very first brands to get the “F” gradation in diamonds, the brand has been showcased at Gold Virtuosi2 (“the Oscar of jewellery design”), Basel International Watch and Jewellery Fair (“We’re the only brand to have been invited there,” he says) besides Lucca Preziosa in Italy and other exhibitions too. Besides, Ganjam’s ‘Supernova’ is the only Indian design that won the Tahitian Pearl Trophy last year. What’s more, there is also the Ganjam Trophy Tournament for the sport of polo. If that doesn’t help you connect with the brand, check out the new boutique at New Delhi’s Emporio mall. After Delhi, Ganjam hopes his brand will expand to other cities too.

He’s clearly making heritage a trend.