How to get millennials obsessed with Japanese tea

Tea masters upending tradition with twists such as adding booze to the beverage

Tea culture in Japan isn’t just about matcha and sencha any more.
 
Modern Japanese tea masters are upending centuries of tradition with new twists on the drink, an attempt to persuade a new generation that tea doesn’t have to be stuffy, fussy and expensive. They’re bringing in innovations as daring as adding flavouring and alcohol.
                                               
That may not seem outlandish in a world that goes mad for Unicorn Frappuccinos, cronuts and rainbow bagels. But in Japan — home to the highly formal, regimented tea ceremony — it’s a sign of a growing movement in which tea stands, salons and shops are pairing smart design with a casual yet authentic approach, aiming to reignite millennials’ interest in the ubiquitous beverage.

 

An intimate, eight-seat salon inside Tokyo’s Spiral Building, the Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience provides an oasis in a city where the depth and appreciation of tea is often sacrificed to convenience.
 
Tea master Shinya Sakurai has developed his own range of tea-infused alcohol that includes refreshing Sencha Gin, smoky Iribancha Whiskey and pink-hued Sunrouge Hoshiko plum wine. Prices start at 1,200 yen ($10.75). While not necessarily considered uncouth, tea-infused alcohol is not commonly seen in Tokyo, which has made Sakurai’s creations particularly noteworthy.
 
In the space, the decor of dark timber, copper and an impressive array of vessels and tools convey a sense of tradition but don’t distract from the main event. Teas are sourced from around the country and served with wagashi (traditional confectionery), while a range of courses featuring tea, liquor and light food are also available.

 
“We offer an uncommon experience,” says Sakurai, who worked as a bar manager before opening his own venture. “As people from different professions start working with tea, I think that more new things will emerge.”
 
Stephane Danton left behind a career as a wine sommelier to develop his own brand of Japanese tea. Born in the culinary nerve centre of Lyon, France, Danton moved to Japan in 1992 and worked as a sommelier and consultant for tea shops and bridal companies before opening Ocharaka in 2005. He wanted to create a more accessible alternative to the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

 
“The way that I think is very simple: To keep tradition, you have to adapt tradition,” Danton says.
 
The compact shop is lined with rows of various Japanese teas flavoured with fruits, flowers, plants, and spices, such as baked apple, caramel, and mango. Starting at 920 yen for 40 grams, the line-up includes more exotic flavours, such as yomogi (mugwort) and konbu (kelp), along with a more familiar sakura (cherry blossom).
 
While the varieties appeal to younger and non-Japanese drinkers, Danton hopes flavoured tea will be a gateway to appreciating the traditional teas. Like any good sommelier, Danton asks customers what they like — their favourite fruits and flavours — to recommend an in-house blend. 

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