‘Courtly’ comes to mind when describing AS Dulat (85) as we negotiate the venue for lunch. We agree on Delhi’s Claridges hotel and opt for Chinese cuisine — not for any geopolitical reasons, simply because it is lighter on the tummy.
He gallantly turns vegetarian for the afternoon in deference to me. The menu, when it arrives, is fiendishly complicated, locked in some sort of tablet that asks for many personal details before it can be opened. We toss it aside, ask for hot and sour soup and a selection of dim sum. Then we go straight to the four

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