Back to the 17th Century

An unplanned trip to Hoi An in Vietnam turns out to be more fascinating and historic than the mainstream Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City

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Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, can be quite an assault - even on Indian senses. Crowded as it is with scooters, mopeds and motorcyles at any time of the day or night, you can rarely see or take in the features of the locals - facemasks abound. Traffic is dense and chaotic and compares with several small Indian cities in the south with an almost equal number of women behind the wheel.

Yet, staying in the bustling old quarter of the city, one is surrounded by history, old architecture and culture and a charming assortment of little shops that are full of local crafts. The quarter has a couple of small temples, museums, old houses and streets reminiscent of a time gone by. The quarter is to one end of the Hoan Kiem Lake, where one can spend many evenings strolling around and sampling local street food sold ridiculously cheap. And if in the area, it's worth stopping to see the 18th century Ngoc Son temple built on an island of sorts on the lake.

I am here, however, around Christmas and the party (it feels like the whole city is there) to celebrate the season is on the street. So, moving itself is a challenge. The street is also blocked off for an open-air rock concert - the ancient meets the modern in a blaring extravaganza of music where one quickly realises that one is no longer as young as one thought. A few obligatory minutes in the crush that surrounds the stage and our small group of six decides to move on.

The War Remnants Museum at Ho Chi Minh City

Most travellers to Hanoi do make the obligatory trip to Halong Bay - and it is worth making. But rather than taking one of the cruises offered by local companies (who often bump you off due to overbookings), we stay at a charming little place - Viethouse lodge - that overlooks the bay. It has great food and stunning views of the ocean. Local boats take you to the caves - the highlight of the bay - and serve an interesting Vietnamese meal on board that works well for non-vegetarians. The caves are dark and grand with lighting that adds to the drama. Despite the fact that there are many visitors, once inside you are greeted by a hushed silence. People naturally drop their voices and you can enjoy the caves without the cacophony of the crowd.

A flight from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is like the Delhi-Mumbai flight in terms of time (2 hours and 5 minutes) and distance, but travellers must book in advance. Last-minute fares are unaffordable and much higher than what even the Indian carriers charge as we discover. As a result, we find ourselves on a long overnight train to Hoi An.

But sometimes what is not planned turns out to be the best. Hoi An - in the centre of the country and on the coast - is often referred to as the "Venice of the East". A Unesco world heritage site, it has three parallel streets that are meticulously maintained and will make you feel you are back in the 17th century. Although some of these old houses have been converted into lovely shops and restaurants (do not miss Cargo which is the best of the lot - high on food quality and ambience), they don't lose any of the original flavour. No tampering with the old structure but restoring them to maximise their ambience is how the locals have chosen to preserve their heritage. Three days seem too short as you explore the little alleys, museums and temples that dot the streets. We are lucky to catch a local dance performance by a few Vietnamese women artistes attired in stunning local costumes at an old centre for arts, which is made of wood and beautifully maintained.

Caves in Halong Bay

Almost all tourists leave with half a dozen stunning silk Vietnamese lamps that collapse into a carry-able size. Ask me, since I bought a dozen. A boat ride in the evening as the sun sets on the canals that surround the streets is also worthwhile as you watch Hoi An at its best.

After a short flight we are there for New Year's eve in Ho Chi Minh City, a harrowing experience to say the least. The city is out on the street, drinking, dancing and wandering to nowhere in particular. You get herded along and have to be pretty inebriated to get into the swing of things.

But Ho Chi Minh City is more spread out than Hanoi (and you can actually breathe) and for those who have followed and read books and films set around and at the time of the Vietnam war, a visit to the War Remnants Museum is both educative and horrifying. For a visual experience of the horrors of chemical warfare, a visit to this museum is, to my mind, a must. Leave the children behind, however.