Top of the second label

Every Premiere Cru estate has second label, produced from grapes adjudged not sufficiently high quality for their flagship wine, whose wine quality is marginally lower, & is priced at a third or less

In 1855, the French Emperor Napoleon III asked for a classification of the best Bordeaux wines for his “Exposition Universelle de Paris”. The wines (the reds were then known as claret) were rated by wine merchants on current prices and reputation into five classes or cru — from First to Fifth, with First Growths (Premier Cru) being the highest-rated.

Only four estates were selected as Premier Cru: Château Lafite (now Lafite-Rothschild), Latour, Margaux, and Haut-Brion. A fifth estate, Mouton, was relegated to Second-Growth status as it had been purchased in 1853 by the Englishman Baron Rothschild — it took 120 years of lobbying by his family for the estate (now called Mouton Rothschild) to be elevated to Premiere Cru status in 1973.

The flagship wines of the Premiere Cru estates are hugely expensive (average $900 per bottle) and rapidly going skywards, depending on the vintage and production quantity. For example, the 2009 Latour is quoted at $1,600 and the 2009 Margaux at $1,100.

However, there’s hope for wine buffs. Every Premiere Cru estate has a second label, produced from grapes adjudged not sufficiently high quality for their flagship wine, whose wine quality is marginally lower, and is priced at a third or less. Indeed, some experts aver that due to the impact of global warming on grape production, the quality of the second labels today is as good (if not better) than that of the First Growths 30 to 50 years ago.

And, these are the five wines The Wine Connoisseurs Bengaluru tasted last week at the residence of one of India’s foremost wine aficionados, paired with South Indian vegetarian cuisine from his own kitchen! 

In order of serving, the wines were:

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2006 (90 points/$250): 70 per cent Cab Sauv, 16 per cent Cab Franc, 14 per cent Merlot, with a new label every year. Very dark ruby colour, a smoky/perfumed and complex aroma of berries, red fruit, vanilla, and spices and a round, lush, full-bodied taste with sweet tannins and long finish. 

Les Forts de Latour 2005 (92 points/$259): 25 per cent to 30 per cent Merlot, more than the First Label, from an exceptional vintage year. Blackberry, coffee, cedar and raisin aromas. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long powerful finish. An amazing second wine.

Carruades de Lafite 2000 (90 points/$358): 51 per cent Cab Sauv, 42 per cent Merlot, 5 per cent Cab Franc, 2 per cent Petit Verdot. Pencil shavings, cassis, and blackberry nose. Medium-body, velvety tannins, elegant taste. Gorgeous.

Chateau Bahans Haut-Brion 1989 (90 points/ $219): Renamed Le Clarence Haut-Brion in 2007. Made from average 48 per cent Cab Sauv, 27 per cent Merlot, and 25 per cent Cab Franc. Colour now going to brick-garnet; aroma of berries and fruit with hints of earth, leather, and menthol. Full-bodied, beautiful rich tannins, Yum!

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 1086 (89 points/$190): Classic Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot but with more Petit Verdot than Cab Franc. Colour still dark ruby with a rusty rim. Complex nose, with fruity, metallic and animal notes, not very intense. Fresh and clean taste, medium-body, firm finish.

An absolutely amazing opportunity to sample some of the best-value top wines in the world — and as the host refused to take any money (the wines all came from his private cellar), we raised Rs 49,500 for flood relief via the Rotary Club of Bengaluru. And yes, the wines went really well with vegetarian South Indian dishes!

My personal favourite: The Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2006.

Viva la France!

Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant