Upland, lowland

Take NH 17 south along the coast to make the most of the hills and the sea

No other big Indian city has quite the same range of nearby attractions as Mumbai. Within several hours’ drive are beaches, hills, forests, historic forts, temples and towns, and much more.

The wisest thing to do is to start early, head down the coast past Alibag and not stop until you’re far enough from the city for the sea to be relatively clean, the hills green not grey, and the seafood worth risking. Some say that doesn’t happen until you reach Malvan, a fishing port 540 km from Mumbai. That is a long day’s drive. Fortunately there are well-liked beaches on the coast before that, and they are not busy like Goa.

Treat NH 17, the curvaceous Mumbai-Goa highway, as the spine of your journey. Travelling Mumbaikars and Punekars on weekend trips often pair beach and hills, and choose their destinations according to how much time they have. The convenience of NH 17 is that, heading down from Mumbai, a right will take you to the coast, and a left into the Western Ghats.

A little beyond Panvel is Karnala Bird Sanctuary, a small but densely forested area between Ghats ridges. There are 140 bird species here. You can picnic, or trek to the overgrown Karnala fort. Be warned that it can get quite busy. And don’t go in the rains.

After Karnala, turn off NH 17 at Vadkhal towards Alibag, but continue towards Murud, a small port famous for the sea fort that guards it. The fort is called Janjira. It dates back to the 15th century, but its present form and fame date from the years when it was controlled by the African Siddis, a maritime power on India’s west coast until the 19th century. A basic motor ferry carries visitors out to the fort at intervals during the day, or you can rent a small boat. The fort is spectacular, with walls intact, cannon still in place, and a big sweet-water tank inside.

Just before Murud, though, you can visit Kashid, a beach backed by another sanctuary, Phansad. It is busy, but Maharashtrians are not bumptious holidaymakers.

The best (but not star-hotel) areas to stay are Shrivardhan and Diveagar. The latter is a few kilometres down the coast from Murud and is said to have cleaner water and a family atmosphere. Also, it’s on the opposite side of NH 17 from Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani, the famous hill stations, now in decline. Going this far requires at least a two-day trip.

The real fun begins over six hours’ drive from Mumbai. This brings within range Ganpatipule, the famous (and still lovely) beach graced with a swayambhu Ganesh temple, and an attractive and economical Maharashtra Tourism beach resort. There are enough clean, well-run hotels here to make this a good stopping spot.

Add another day to your journey and continue to Malvan. Along the waterfront in this small town you can try Malvani cuisine, including fresh fish fry and solkadi. Malvan also has a fort glowering over its harbour — Sindhudurg, built by Shivaji and featuring an actual temple dedicated to him. A few people still live in this fort, which is cut off from the mainland during the high seas of the monsoon. Go before the rains come.

About 6 km beyond Malvan is Tarkarli beach, located on a broad sandbar between the sea and the Karli river. Tarkarli is gaining in popularity, unfortunately, because it is so close to Goa and still so unspoilt. There are a few resorts, including a tourism department one, but the place to stay is in one of the family-owned lodging places opening directly onto the beach. Good home-style local food is guaranteed, but bring your own drinks.

From Malvan the nicest way to return to Mumbai is via Sawantwadi, a pretty, laidback former princely town built on low hills around a lake. There is a rundown palace, and wooden crafts to buy, so it is a quick visit. The road continues past Amboli, a delicious, well-forested little hill station overlooking north Goa. In the rains Amboli is heavenly, with ultra-crisp air and many waterfalls, though the town itself is not picturesque.

Amboli is on the connecting road towards NH 4, part of the Golden Quadrilateral that will waft you at speed back to the Mumbai-Pune Expressway and the end of your long weekend.