What's new on the wine menu in 2018

Big bottles (magnums are 1.5 litre and Jerobaums 3 litre) will gain popularity for parties; wines in 375 ml bottles will be aimed at mass market

What will happen in the wine world in 2018? Here are a few predictions culled from both the internet as well as from the Indian wine producers. 

The trend towards premierisation will continue

Worldwide consumption of wine in volume has been stagnant or declining overall, but quality wines are gaining share in both volume and value: people are drinking less but better wine. World-renowned luxury Champagne, Barolo, and Vermouths are expected to gain — along with Rose’ wines, Carmanere (a red wine grape), and French Cremant (sparkling wines).

In India, the quality of locally-produced wines is improving all the time, with the top reserves breaching the Rs 2,000 per bottle barrier for the first time — and consumers are willing to pay.

Climate change will affect grape crop and prices

 

The grape harvest across EU countries was down by 14 per cent in 2017: frost severely affected vineyards in Bordeaux, particularly St Emilion — although in some places the production increased (Romania’s harvest was up 50 per cent). Droughts led to wildfires in many parts of California and vineyards suffered. Expect these trends to continue in 2018 as climate change makes dry weather drier and cold weather colder. With lower harvests come higher prices — so Prosecco will no longer be as cheap.

India has not escaped global warming: Krsma Estates (north Karnataka) is facing a severe water shortage, prompting them to discontinue some varietals (Chardonnay, Sangiovese). Higher temperatures have prompted grape harvests to start in parts of Maharashtra as early as mid-December.

Some producers will continue to differenciate with new packaging and labels

Big bottles (magnums are 1.5 litre and Jerobaums 3 litre) will gain popularity for use at parties and celebrations. At the other end is the emergence of wines in small (375 ml) bottles, as well as quirky packs (vials, cans, pouches and sachets) aimed at the mass market.

In India, we already have wines priced below Rs 600 in 375 ml bottles, with the lowest-priced wines (Rs 200 per bottle or less) also being available in 180 ml pet bottles. Expect bag-in-the-box  wines (2 litre packs) to start becoming available. Blue wines (imported) too will make an entry. 

Eco-friendly wines will become mainstream

Sustainable viticulture and organic, bio-dynamic — the fact that eco-friendly grape cultivation practices lead to better quality and help preserve the environment is gaining wider recognition every year, and select consumers are willing to pay the associated premiums. Since obtaining certification takes years, expect more wineries to move to eco-friendly formats.

Wines I’ve been drinking: The Saint Cosme winery in the Southern Rhone area of Gigondas (France) has a history going back over 2,000 years. The present property and winery has been owned by the same family for 14 generations, with Louis Berroul being both the owner and winemaker. Their Saint Cosme Cotes-du-Rhone 2014 (87 points, Rs 2,539 in Bengaluru), a 100 per cent Syrah, is sublime: complex aromas of chocolate, cassis and blackberries and a full-bodied mouthfeel with silky soft tannins, and a finish that goes on and on.

Vive la France, and a Happy New Year to all.

Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant