Italian designer researched Bollywood, books for Indian line

Italian designer Marta Santambrogio, the new creative director of Shingora's luxury division, says that there was whole lot of research involving Indian cinema, books and markets that went behind making the brand's latest line of shawls, scarves and stoles.

She says the aesthetics of Bollywood is something that's very popular in her home country, and she is mesmerised by its aura.

Focussing on the vital role that scarves, shawls and stoles play during winters, Shingora presented 'Indian Pioneers', the autumn-winter 2015 luxury collection of accessories at the ongoing Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW). This collection is the brain child of Santambrogio, who is in India since a year now.

Asked about the research that went behind making this collection, she told IANS: "I did the same research what I do back in Italy. I went through books, markets, fairs, exhibitions, I went through cinema, and then things started happen."

Did it include researching Bollywood films too?

"Yes. I looked at Bollywood movies and vintage Bollywood films. I was mesmerised with it. It's not much for the costumes, but believe it or not, the whole aesthetic of Bollywood is something very popular even in Europe," she told IANS by referring the story line of RajKummar Rao's film 'Citylights', which was the last film that she saw.

"That was a very sad film but," she added.

Santambrogio has a strong background in Italian luxury industry. The designer is an expert in textile design and her works range from creative direction to artwork, research to technical and industrial support.

She has previously worked at Italian fashion house Etro. With that legacy behind, she is here to enhance and complement her design aesthetics to the emerging design house of Shingora.

So what made her associate with Indian brand?

"One thing is that Shingora is one company where you manufacture pretty much everything in a scarf. You can die the yarn, make the embroidery, you can weave, loom and also tie-and-dye. So in short, you can combine all these different techniques in one single garment. So for me, it was like playground.

"The other point was that as a designer, I feel that you can affect people's life too," she told IANS.

Santambrogio, who holds a masters degree from University of the Arts, London, also feels that having been exposed to trends globally, she can give a fresh take to Indian textile and embroideries.

"We are using Indian technique, but I am approaching them with a different angle because I am exposed to global trends, and I am lucky enough to have worked in different environments. I can come up with something fresh, and look at that same very techniques which have been here since ages, in a different and new way," she said.

The Indian fashion industry looks very "exciting" to her.

"It's been one year that I am in India and it has never stopped me from finding a possibility. I find opportunities every time. I'm in a privileged situation where I get to work with such a pioneer company.

"Whatever I say, they never give me a 'no', and this is something that is completely lost in the west. It feels like a new pages can be written here and this is why I love being in India," she said.

So has she ever thought of participating in any fashion weeks here in days to come?

"I'm an Italian so if I have to do my collection, I would want to do it in my own country. Here, I'm collaborating with an Indian brand, so I am here just to serve the purpose," said the designer.

(Nivedita can be contacted at Nivedita.s@ ians.in)