"Taste, the way you and I think of it, is ultimately in the brain," said study leader Charles S Zuker, from the Columbia University Medical Centre (CUMC) in US.
"Dedicated taste receptors in the tongue detect sweet or bitter and so on, but it's the brain that affords meaning to these chemicals," said Zuker.
The scientists used optogenetics, which allowed them to directly activate specific neurons with laser light.
Sweet and bitter tastes were chosen because they are most critical and recognisable tastes for humans and other animals.
When scientists injected a substance into the mice to silence the sweet neurons, the animals could not reliably identify sweet.
They could, however, still detect bitter. The animals regained their ability to taste sweet when the drug was flushed from the brain.
The researchers were also able to make the animals think they were tasting bitter or sweet, even when the animal was only drinking water.
In contrast, stimulating bitter neurons dramatically suppressed licking, and elicited classic taste-rejection responses, including the activation of gagging behaviour.
The researchers also performed optogenetic tests on animals that had never tasted sweet or bitter chemicals, and showed that activation of the corresponding neurons triggered the appropriate behavioural response.
In a final set of experiments, animals were trained to report the identity of an orally applied sweet and bitter stimulus by performing a novel behavioural task, allowing the researchers to test what the animal is tasting.
The behaviour of the mice did not differ between the real and virtual tastes, demonstrating that the light is mimicking the perception of bitter and sweet.
The study was published in the journal Nature.
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