All that glitters: Traditional jewellery gets a touch of modern design

Ornaments retain their impression of antiquity without being flashy or cumbersome to wear

Traditional jewellery has a modern spin: Ornaments are light and reasonably priced. “The designs are much better, with the advent of technology. They (ornaments) are unique, affordable and come mostly in antique finish and not very in the face yellow gold look or bling," says Anshika Vohra, a young bride in Gurugram.

Every Indian household has jewellery: As part of tradition and culture, as investment and as a style statement. “It is a marker of my cultural identity, heritage, social status and also has religious significance such as my mangal sutra, toe rings, and nose rings invoke auspiciousness and protection. It’s also a means of my personal expression and fashion statement,” says Sangita Singh, a 52-year-old resident of Noida.

“I know we all have heard the slogan ‘diamonds are forever’, coined by the De Beers marketing campaign in 1947. The most successful marketing campaign of its times, the slogan was recognisable across America, and inspired popular culture in various ways, including the film Diamonds Are Forever in 1971. But then let’s not forget that it was an advertising campaign at the end of the day,” says Manisha Gawade, who curated information for her late sister Alka Raghuvanshi’s book ‘A Rendezvous with Traditional Indian Jewellery’.

“Every Indian home will always have gold jewellery to back them up with. Every bride is forever given the metal from either side of the family as an asset even if there is financial trouble (just in case),” she says.

India has a culture of jewellery-making tradition of more than 5,000 years – statues and sculptures in temples may be without clothes but they will be adorned with jewellery, says Rajiv Arora, founder of Amrapali Jaipur, a jewellery house.

Arora and his school friend Rajesh Ajmera – they are both history buffs – travelled in the hinterlands of Rajasthan and found that jewellery, like food and dialect, changes every 100km. It is a marker of caste and class. “Every caste wears a different jewellery – a Bishnoi woman will wear a different nose ring from a Jat woman to the Meena woman,” says Arora.

Gold is the mainstay of traditional jewellery. “In Indian tradition, gold has been for centuries associated with prosperity, purity, and auspiciousness. Gold is more than just a metal; it is a treasured tradition passed down through generations. Additionally, silver holds its own unique place in Indian jewellery traditions. Silver is often associated with purity, tranquility, and healing properties,” says Yash Agarwal, creative director at Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers.

Traditional Indian jewellery has intricate design and it is distinct from western style. “…gold is the most prominent look of traditional while coloured stones and diamond are significant in contemporary. The work and intricacy of jewellery is the second distinguishing feature because modern jewellery is minimalist and lightweight, dainty while Indian is maximalist and heavy,” says Rani Komal Jain, the founder of SMARS, a jewellery brand whose Ram Sita kada (bracelet) went viral on social media recently.

“Our (jewellery) motifs are inspired by temples and artistic designs. Western is understated while traditional is visible and one of a kind,” says Jain.

SMARS makes traditional jewellery at affordable prices (under Rs 10,000) in antique gold finish. “Everybody cannot afford gold and yet everyone loves to wear it. Gen Z does not want to wear chunky gold 22 karat…or block their money in heavy purchases of gold. That is why our pieces are very mattified and give an antique look,” says Jain.

“Every piece is done well and the finishing is done with 1 micron gold plating. Those not very clued into jewellery cannot even make out if it's real or imitation.”

Buy classic jewellery that will not go out of style, says Aayush Soni, who works with The House of MBj, a Kolkata-based jewellery brand. Buy jewellery that can be altered to match your style or the occasion. That means keeping pieces looking fresh while sticking with what makes them special. Moreover, think about getting pieces with removable parts so you can mix and match different looks together. Therefore, this will provide even more use for your money and make sure that every outfit has its own special touch of elegance.

Brands like Amrapali, Jaypore and SMARS have made traditional Indian jewellery affordable. “Some of our top trending traditional pieces include temple jewellery available in a price range of Rs 2,290-25,990. Temple jewellery, originally crafted to adorn the idols of gods and goddesses and then worn by royal dancers and patrons, has a vibrant history. It’s a heartfelt homage to the intricate craftsmanship of South India. It is slightly modernized in today’s time by using stones and giving everyone a chance to own what was previously only for the royals,” says Radhika Chhabra, creative head at Jaypore.

Traditional jewellery requires care and attention to ensure longevity. Clean your jewellery by using a soft, lint-free cloth. Do not expose traditional jewellery to perfumes, hairsprays, and cleaning agents. Store each piece separately to prevent scratches and tangling.

Jewellery	Gold (22 Karat), price range	Imitation price range
Maang Teeka	Rs 40,000-2,20,000	Rs 800-10,000
Maang Patti	Rs 6,000-15,000	Rs 1200-3,000
Jhumkas	Rs 30,000-3,50,000	Rs 5,000-30,000
Balis	Rs 30,000-80,000	Rs 1,500-10,000
Studs	Rs 6,000-1,50,000	Rs 1,000-8,000
Nose pin	Rs 5,000-1,20,000	Rs 500-5,000
Nose ring	Rs 5,000-1,20,000	Rs 500-5,000
Bangles	Rs 60,000-4,00,000	Rs 5,000-40,000
Kangan/ kadas	Rs 60,000-4,00,000	Rs 7,000-50,000
Hathphool	Rs 70,000-2,50,000	Rs 6,000-40,000
Kamarbandh	Rs 7,0,000-65,00,000	Rs 3,000-20,000
Payal	Rs 13,000 onwards	Rs 2,500-15,000
Toe ring	Rs 5,000 onwards	Rs 500-3,000
Jhoomar	Rs 1,50,000-2,00,000	Rs 500-3,000

Source: Market research