Power dressing redux: Premium menswear goes down a different path

From fit to fabric, the modern executive's wardrobe is all about precision, comfort, and quiet confidence

The rules of office dressing are evolving. Power dressing today is less about rigid formality and more about comfort, versatility, and understated sophistication. While the crisp white shirt and navy blazer remain the backbone of the executive wardrobe, modern professionals are gravitating towards breathable fabrics, tailored-yet-relaxed silhouettes, and smart-casual staples that effortlessly transition from boardroom meetings to after-hours engagements. The modern wardrobe prioritises fit, fabric, and functionality — elements that reflect quiet confidence rather than conspicuous labels.

A shift in menswear priorities

“Office wear today is about intelligent dressing — clothes that not only look sharp but also feel comfortable throughout a long workday,” says Priyanka Chokhani, cofounder of Mumbai-based 16 Stitches, a custom tailoring boutique. “When we started 16 Stitches, we realised early on that a large segment of customers were between sizes, say, a 41 instead of a standard 40 or 42. Our customisation options, from sleeve length to collar style, ensure that the shirt feels personal and tailored without the hassle of visiting a bespoke tailor.”

 

Professionals echo this sentiment. Amit Malhotra, a senior marketing manager at a fintech firm, says: “I used to buy shirts purely for the brand label, but I now look for stretch fabrics and wrinkle-free finishes that can keep me comfortable from morning meetings to client dinners.”

 

Shreya Nair, an HR consultant, observes a visible shift: “I see more executives leaning towards tailored chinos, premium polos, and textured shirts. The focus is on subtle details — stitching, weave, and collar structure — over overt logos or flashy designs.”

What’s trending in premium menswear?

Legacy brands like Louis Philippe (Aditya Birla Group), Van Heusen, Raymond, Allen Solly, Zodiac Clothing, Blackberrys, and Park Avenue continue to set benchmarks in formal menswear in India. These names are synonymous with fine cotton, structured fits, and timeless patterns.

 

However, a new breed of digital-first brands is making waves. Firms like Bombay Shirt Company, 16 Stitches, Tailorman, and Hamercop are redefining office wear with made-to-measure and semi-bespoke shirts that combine precision tailoring with online convenience. Bombay Shirt Company, for instance, offers customisable shirts starting at Rs 1,990, climbing to Rs 5,990 for premium Egyptian cotton and linen blends. Tailorman and 16 Stitches target the Rs 3,000–Rs 4,500 segment, appealing to those who want impeccable fits at mid-premium prices. Hamercop, priced under Rs 2,500, is ideal for young professionals seeking trendy yet functional formals.

 

Rohit Jain, a Gurugram-based investment banker, says: “A Rs 4,000 shirt from a premium brand might sound steep, but if it fits perfectly and lasts years, it’s worth the investment. I’d rather have six versatile shirts of exceptional quality than a dozen average ones.”

 

In many industries, smart casuals are fast replacing traditional formals. Polos, knit shirts, and structured chinos are bridging the gap between comfort and professionalism. Uniqlo’s AIRism range, Hugo Boss’s Smart Casual line, and Raymond’s Naturale collection — crafted with sustainable khadi-inspired fabrics - are tapping into this shift.

Anatomy of a premium shirt

What truly sets a premium shirt apart? It comes down to fabric, fit, and finish. High-quality Egyptian or Supima cotton is standard, with weaves like poplin, twill, or herringbone adding texture and character.

 

Salesh Grover, business head of OSL Luxury Collections Pvt Ltd, which recently introduced Camicissima Milano to India, explains: “The modern executive values timeless colours like white, blue, and grey but is not afraid to experiment with softer hues or subtle patterns on less formal days. Today’s executive wants clothes that can move with him, not against him.”

 

Next is fit. A tailored fit that complements the body without feeling restrictive is key. Details such as mother-of-pearl buttons, contrast collars, fine stitching, and hand-finishing on cuffs and seams elevate a shirt from ordinary to exceptional.

 

Rakesh Kulkarni, a senior IT professional, puts it succinctly: “I don’t mind paying Rs 3,500 – Rs 5,000 for a shirt if it sits well on my shoulders and chest. A good fit makes you look confident without trying too hard.”

 

Choosing the right collar can also transform a look. A white cuff-collar (contrast) is the ultimate power statement especially when paired with a bold tie. The regular collar (classic point) is the safest bet, versatile for daily office wear or formal occasions. For a minimal, modern vibe, the Mandarin collar brings in an Indo-Western twist, best worn without a tie. If you want to show off a statement knot, the cut-away collar — with its wide-spread tips — oozes bold sophistication. For a relaxed yet polished appearance, the button-down collar is perfect for casual Fridays or business lunches, often styled without a tie and paired with chinos. The rule of thumb? Match the collar to the occasion: formal setups call for regular or cut-away collars, while smart casuals shine with Mandarin or button-down options.

Patterns That Speak

Shirt patterns make a quiet but powerful statement. Plain shirts are timeless classics, perfect for formal meetings, interviews, or as a backdrop for bold accessories. Printed shirts — from subtle micro-dots to bold florals — add personality and work well for creative workplaces or casual Fridays. Stripes strike a balance between formal and stylish; pinstripes under a suit exude sharpness, while broader stripes lean more towards semi-formal settings. Textured shirts, such as herringbone, oxford, or dobby weaves, offer depth and sophistication without being flashy — ideal for both office hours and evening outings.

 

Nikhil Arora, a corporate lawyer, says: “Plain whites and light blues are my weekday staples. On Fridays or client lunches, I experiment with textured or striped shirts — it’s a subtle way to stand out.”

 

And then there's the eternal question of whether to have a pocket or not? A pocket adds casual flair, while pocketless shirts look cleaner and more formal. Rounded pockets are considered the least formal, whereas straight-cut or no-pocket designs are favoured in premium shirts for their neatness.

 

The back of a shirt determines how it drapes, and pleats make all the difference. A box pleat, with its central fold, offers comfort and ease of movement but leans towards the casual side. Side pleats, near the shoulder blades, create a sharper silhouette and are often preferred in premium shirts. No pleat, however, is the hallmark of a tailored shirt, delivering a clean, sculpted fit.

 

Ultimately it should look effortless elegance. As Sir Hardy Amies, the legendary Savile Row designer, once remarked, “A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.” This sentiment perfectly resonates with today’s understated premium menswear.

Expert tip: Build a capsule wardrobe

Instead of chasing every trend, experts suggest investing in five to six versatile premium shirts — a mix of whites, light blues, pastels, one striped, and one textured option. Pair these with beige chinos, a navy blazer, and leather loafers, and you have a capsule wardrobe that covers 70 per cent of office scenarios.

 

“Two things I always recommend: invest in versatile colours that transition from day to evening, and add understated details — like a fine weave or a contrasting print inside the collar — that bring personality without being loud,” says Chokhani.

 

Premium menswear is about smart spending, not splurging. With homegrown brands offering high-quality shirts alongside international names, Indian executives have abundant options to build wardrobes that are classic, comfortable, and future-ready. A well-cut shirt, after all, isn’t just clothing: it’s a career investment.   PRICE CHART 

Brand	Price Range (Rs)	Highlights
Louis Philippe Luxe	3,500 – 7,000	Egyptian cotton, contrast collars, formal fits
Zodiac Clothing	3,000 – 5,500	Tailored European styling, fine fabrics
Raymond Eterno	4,000 – 7,000	Wrinkle-free technology, classic colors
Van Heusen Studio	3,000 – 6,500	Slim-fit, stretch fabrics, corporate appeal
16 Stitches	3,000 – 4,500	Customised sizing, premium cotton blends
Hamercop	2,000 – 4,000	Made-to-measure, formal and smart casuals
Park Avenue Elite	3,000 – 6,000	Blended fabrics, rich colors
Camicissima Milano	4,000 – 8,000	Italian heritage, lightweight poplin

Source: Market Research