Kolhapuri chappals star at Prada's Milan show, but India gets no credit

Kolhapuri chappals walked the Prada runway in Milan. But while the world applauded the design, India-the land they came from-was left out of the spotlight

India has long inspired the world of fashion, but rarely does it get the credit it deserves. The latest example: The humble Kolhapuri chappal — handcrafted leather sandals with a centuries-old legacy. It has found its way to one of the most prestigious runways in the world, Prada’s Men’s Spring/ Summer 2026 show in Milan. But while the design took centre stage, the origin story remained in the shadows. 

 

Prada’s showcase, held at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, was a visual metaphor of contrast and rebellion. Designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the show featured 56 bold looks, with mashups like brown leather jackets over briefs, and suits layered with bright turtlenecks. The theme was “a shift of attitude – dismantling of meaning, and dismantling power.”

 

But for Indian fashion watchers, it was hard to ignore one glaring omission amid all that symbolism: the presence of Kolhapuri chappals, with no mention of Kolhapur. 

A detail too familiar 

The sandals, worn by several models, were unmistakable. Tan leather, slim silhouettes, ringed toes — textbook Kolhapuri. Prada even doubled down on the detail, sending out show invites that included a “leather ring” — a not-so-subtle nod to the defining feature of Kolhapuris.

 

Yet, no official recognition was given to the footwear’s Indian roots. The lack of credit has stirred sharp reactions online. As one post on X noted, “Prada SS26 includes Kolhapuri chappal, which originated from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, India, and is known for its intricate design and craftsmanship. Just like the ‘Scandinavian scarves’, the Western fashion industry is ripping off Indian fashion again.”

 

“They say if you don’t value your culture, someone else will and that’s exactly what’s happening. Prada is now selling Kolhapuri chappals for hundreds of dollars, while our artisans, who’ve kept this craft alive for generations, get no credit or fair pay," another user commented. 

“Prada’s latest season offerings – Kolhapuri chappals! Is there no geo-tagging of Kolhapuri chappals? Can they steal our legacy and sell it for insane amounts?” a third user questioned. 

A recurring pattern 

This isn’t a new story. The global fashion industry has long flirted with Indian aesthetics — be it Sabyasachi’s regal fabrics or Rahul Mishra’s intricate embroidery — but rarely does it acknowledge the heritage it borrows from. Just last year, a scarf resembling a dupatta was rebranded as a “Scandinavian minimalism” piece. A lehenga was called a “Y2K maxi skirt.” Even Alia Bhatt’s saree at Cannes was described by some Western outlets as a “gown”.

 

The Kolhapuri incident feels like another chapter in what many are calling a modern-day fashion colonisation — a global fascination with Indian tradition, minus the credit.