A can of beer from Pakistan

Murree Brewery wants to start operations this side of the border. What can Indians look forward to?

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Murree Brewery, the only one of its kind in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and an oddity of sorts in a strict Islamic society, is looking for a partner in India. After an abortive bid in 2012, it is "now in discussion with a Chandigarh-based distribution company which wants a brewing franchise," says a senior official of Murree Brewery .

The brewery, owned by a Parsi named Isfanyarul Bhandara, and the town it is associated with have a long history. Murree town, in the Pir Panjal ranges, was founded by the British as a sanatorium for soldiers serving on the Afghan front. In 1850, under the famous soldier and statesman Henry Montgomery Lawrence, the construction of Murree ('high place') began. Later, in 1860, the Murree Brewery was set up in the neighbourhood of 'Ghora Galli' to supply alcohol to British troops. The British also set up distilleries in Rawalpindi and Quetta. During Partition, the Ghora Galli building was burnt down. Its ruins still stand even as operations have shifted elsewhere.

Islamisation was the biggest threat to the brewery. "During his reign, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, though a drinker himself, ordered prohibition in Pakistan to please the Islamist lobby. His successor, General Zia-ul-Haq, of course, Islamised the entire country," says Sonya Fatah, journalist and writer from Karachi, who is married to an Indian and stays in Delhi. "Only non-Muslim citizens of Pakistan or foreigners can consume liquor and that too after producing documents. In reality though, liquor is available throughout Pakistan."

Today, the brewery has diversified its range and also produces non-alcoholic beers, carbonated drinks and fruity malts. Its premium beers include Murree Beer, Murree's Millenium Beer and Murree's Classic Lager. Its major whiskies include brands such as Classic, Vintage Gold and Murree's Millennium Reserve. The brewery also produces Silver Top Gin, Bolskaya Vodka and Doctor's Brandy.

Among non-alcoholic beers, there are brands like Cindy and Malt 79, brewed from barley malt and hops and toted as a summer thirst quencher. Carbonated soft drink include Bigg Orange, Bigg Apple and Bigg Lemon.

If the brewery succeeds in finding a partner, would it mean something for Indo-Pakistan trade? "I am rather cynical about that," says Fatah. "The brewery's entry into India would be a sensitive affair and could be hijacked by rabid elements on either side."

And do the big boys of the Indian beer trade need to be wary? "Not at all. Players like UB Group, SABMiller (Foster's) and Carlsberg (Tuborg) would remain dominant," says Pradip Gidwani, coach and founder of Pint Room.

But liquor aficionados believe Murree can carve a place for itself. "It will position itself as a boutique brand and market the nostalgia of being an institution founded in a united subcontinent," says Gidwani. "If the product is great it has the chance of finding a niche market," says Shatbhi Basu, Delhi-based beverage expert.

Experts believe that Murree would be a welcome addition to an Indian tippler's options. "Their single malts have a pretty good reputation - would definitely love a bottle!" quips Basu.

So should we say cheers to that?