Food continent

Nueva in Delhi goes beyond South American staples to offer a burst of fresh, indigenous flavours

There is more to South American fare than a Peruvian ceviche or a tiradito. It is to showcase the rich bounty of dishes and culinary styles the continent has to offer that Michael Swamy, chef, photographer and food stylist, launched Nueva in Delhi recently. The latest addition to a bevy of eateries such as The Fatty Bao and Ziu in the Sangam Courtyard, Nueva is being touted as India’s first South American restaurant.  

It was back in 1990s that South American cuisine burst onto the food scene, with Peruvian flavours being hailed as the next big thing in gastronomy. Since then, chefs from across the world have travelled to the country, interpreting its rich culinary legacy in a progressive fine-dining space. Diners in India got a taste of the cuisine only in 2016 when Atul Kochhar opened Lima, the first Peruvian lounge, in Mumbai. However, food from the rest of the South American countries is still not a part of mainstream dining. So, instead of focusing on just one country, Swamy has decided to take the diners through a Spanish trail through the continent. 

Spread across two floors, the lower level is a tapas bar, a chic semi-formal space, where you can relax with a cocktail or two and a tapas selection. The first floor offers an elegant fine dining space, with globular lights casting a soft glow all around. As one walks up the stairs to the top level, big glass windows offer a glimpse into the kitchen, where Swamy works with a team of 15 chefs. He also grows his own microgreens here. The restaurant can do 90 covers and offers the options of fine dining, high tea and tapas under one roof. 

The restaurant’s menu is a tribute to the  vast larder that nature has bestowed South America with. So, ingredients such as corn, potatoes, aji amarillo or yellow chillies, aji panca or Peruvian peppers, passion fruit, limes, seafood, mild spices and grain find a place in the dishes. A lot of produce is seasonal and local, with the team also sourcing from the various embassies to get the original ingredients.

The meal starts on a refreshing note with a Todo Fresco, or fresh pineapple juice with a burst of passion fruit, black pepper and fresh lime topped with sparkling water. A succulent dish of Jason de Pato y Queso, which is duck ham and cheese, acts as a perfect accompaniment. For vegetarians, a good option for this course could be the Tostada des Alcachofa Marinada, a tostada with marinated artichoke hearts, which highlights a clear Chilean influence. The salsa, accompanying the dish, adds a zing with the slight heat of chillies and the sweetness of fruit coming through. 

The Peruvian ceviche does make an appearance, in its classic seafood form as well as in a vegetarian avatar. The sweet, fresh flavours of shrimp shine through in Ceviche de Camarones, which is served with leche de tigre, tiger’s milk flavoured with aji amarillo, which is a citrus marinade that cures the seafood. In Peru, this marinade is believed to be an aphrodisiac and also a cure for bad hangovers.

The coconut-milk based panther’s milk is just as good. But, sadly, the Ceviche de Verdure or ceviche of baby corn, baby carrots and water chestnuts cries out for a softer texture to balance the crunch of the veggies. Also worth trying is the Estofado de Puerco Cordero Con Salsa de Cilantro, a hearty stew of Lamb Osso Bucco with cilantro sauce. Stew is a staple across households in South America, with each country having its own variant, and the lamb version stands out for the juiciness of the sous-vide meat.

One can see the influence of Japanese immigrants in the Queso de Soya con Verduras Chimichurri, which offers grilled tofu on a bed of chimichurri vegetables. The chimichurri is of Argentinian origin and is usually used with grilled meats. A green or the verde version was used here. The sauce also has a red version. 
 

A meal for two costs Rs 2,500, taxes extra