From a Nawab's recipe

A restaurant in Kolkata has become a kabab and biryani destination for the Chinese, the Afghans and others.

From five in the morning to midnight, one particular food joint in Kolkata becomes the hub for people from different parts of the world. The first customers are the Chinese, who are early risers, followed by the Kabuliwalas who come for a breakfast of roti and kabab. The rest follow through the day — the regulars from Kolkata and an increasing number of foreigners.

Rahmania, a restaurant set up 27 years ago as a humble effort of a migrant from Kerala to earn a livelihood, has now become a popular destination for Mughlai food. Recently, it has also renovated its interiors to offer the Mughlai experience. New tiles with floral motifs have been arranged in Indo-Persian arches. And one wall offers a graphic account of the history of the Kolkata-style biryani, the flagship dish of the restaurant. “We did research on the origin of the Kolkata biryani, which is unique in taste. In no other place does one find potato in biryani,” says Md Sharif who runs the family business with his brother, Mujib Rahman.

It is said that Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Awadh, during his exile in British Calcutta, ordered a biryani feast for the labourers building Shahi Imambara near the city. Only, the poor Nawab could not afford meat for his men and instead offered biryani with potatoes. The dish soon became popular. Now, almost all Mughlai eateries in the city prepare biryani with meat and potato.

Besides biryani, Rahmania is known for its chicken chap, mutton kasa and kababs. “Post- renovation, we have added a new delicacy, mutton shahenshah. That is cooked mutton wrapped in an omelette in a gravy made from curd, crème and essential spices,” says Sharif adding that they are experimenting with Mughlai dishes and are planning to introduce some other authentic ones by next winter.

Sharif also speaks about his expansion plans for the restaurant. Rahmania, which was set up in 1984 by his father, Mohammad Farooq near Mullick Bazaar, now has 12 outlets across Kolkata and caters to around 2,000 customers every day. “We have a centralised kitchen to ensure that the quality and standard of food are maintained across all outlets,” says Sharif. Rahmania has also opened an outlet at Kottakkal in Kerala and at least another five will be set up in different parts of West Bengal by the end of this year.

Sharif and his brother are also committed to making their Kolkata biryani global. They plan to open a branch in Dubai. Within the city, the restaurant also takes orders posted on its website and has a Facebook fan page for younger customers like Rittika Sarkar.

“It’s the shami kabab and the biryani that brings me here,” says Sarkar who has come to Rahmania for lunch with a friend. She knows that she can find those any time she walks in during the 19 hours that the restaurant functions in a day.