In the spirit of Christmas

The year end is around the corner: Merry Christmas everybody; it's the time to be merry and of good cheer, which is reflected in a goodly amount of wining and dining with friends and family worldwide.

Wine, the oldest alcoholic beverage in the world, has been an essential part of both religious and social occasions since at least the Great Flood, and there's no denying that a good wine is "spiritually uplifting" in many ways.

So what wine(s) should you be looking for this festive season?

SPARKLING WINES: There's nothing better than a nice bubbly to celebrate almost any occasion, and we're now spoilt for choice, what with some good stuff being produced in India and a wide variety of not-so-expensive Cava/ Prosecco/Spumante available all over.

Try the Chandon Brut, produced in Nashik, which is uniformly priced at Rs 1,200 across the country and was recently adjudged the best Indian sparkling wine at a blind tasting held in Mumbai. It's a terrific bubbly: aromatic and well balanced and just right for the party.

Then there are numerous Australian sparkling wines and Italian Prosecco wines, priced between Rs 1,400 and Rs 2,500 - you "get what you pay for" as the quality generally varies with the price. I like the Zonin Prosecco Special Cuvee (Rs 1,850, Bengaluru) which has a lovely aroma and taste.

And if you want champagne (and are willing to pay the price), move away from the mundane and experiment with something like Bollinger, Mumm, or even Billecart-Salmon. Each has a story and great taste.

RED WINES: There's nothing like a good red wine to warm the cockles of one's heart. So go out and splurge a bit. Again, there are many terrific wines now available all over, particularly imported wines.

Avoid the lowest-priced wines (Rs 1,000-Rs 1,200) from anywhere as these entry-level wines tend to be inferior to domestic wines at similar price points. Instead start with wines from Chile and Argentina at about Rs 1,400-plus per bottle. Labels like Montes or Bodegas Norton are excellent value.

Moving up the price (and quality ladder) I would recommend an unusual wine from France: the Chateau de Saint Cosme Little James Basket Press (both red & white) from the Gigondas appellation of the Southern Rhone from one of the oldest wineries in the region. These are made in a very "new world" style and hence eminently drinkable, even at Rs 1,995 in Bengaluru.

At still higher price-points, one's choices become limited, both by retailers' reluctance to stock higher-priced wines as well as supply constraints due to the recent requirements of the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India. An interesting wine available only in Bengaluru is the Brancaia Xmas 2010 (Rs 2,950) from Tuscany - a "baby Super-Tuscan" made from a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that has berries and spice and tobacco aromas and a complex and medium-bodied taste. Seems perfect for the New Year.

I hesitate to talk about wines at the top end simply because at prices of Rs 10,000-plus per bottle, I would want to know the vintage of the wines and how and where they've been stored so that the chances of getting a "bad" bottle are minimised. Given the storage conditions here, it is best to go for these wines only at a good hotel or the top-end restaurants - and ask their sommelier (if they have one) or manager for details.

With a 'Ho Ho Ho' to all for the festive season.

Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant