Join the club

With the buzz about wine consumption increasing exponentially in India, I am sure there’s adequate scope to increase the number of associations dedicated to understanding and appreciating wine.

Yes, there are already a few wine-related organisations around. The Bangalore Wine Club and the Delhi Wine Club were both set up in 2001 — the latter not to be confused with The Wine Club (also in Delhi), which was probably the first such in India and dates back to 1991. Then there are wine clubs in Kolkata, Chandigarh, Chennai, Nagpur and Pune — which were all established comparatively recently.

These are all clubs where groups of consumers focus on wine drinking. These are not wine buyers’ clubs and given the constraints placed on wine availability and licensing in India, there’s little scope for such organisations to develop their own cellars or subscription services for wine sales. Look at the demise of the Wine Society of India in February.

Over a period of time, most wine clubs tend to become fairly exclusive “wining and dining” social affairs, dedicated more to organising a sit-down dinner at a star hotel where the food is paired with wines, with only a perfunctory mention of the wines being served. 

Also, most wine clubs here tend to have older groups of people as members: 50-plus seems to be the norm, as are people who are more comfortable with the social aspects of wine and who don’t necessarily want to learn more than what they already know. Of course, on the positive side is an older group’s ability to afford the best: good wines are expensive and such members tend to have higher disposable incomes.

Still, there’s space in India for new wine clubs targeting people in the 25-plus age bracket. If you are interested in starting something similar, here’s what you need to keep in mind.

• One person needs to champion the effort and do much of the initial work, with at least one more supporting resource whenever required.
• Start small, perhaps at someone’s residence, with an initial group of six to eight like-minded people who share a passion for wine. Grow over time, moving to stand-alone restaurants and eventually hotels when numbers exceed the ability of a hosting at homes.
• Work as a non-profit and make each event contributory. Anything free is valued less and it’s always worth paying for good wines. Ensure using appropriate glassware at each event — nothing spoils good wine like a bad wineglass. Research the wines being served and share this with other participants.
• Develop a written constitution and rules and, over time, consider registering yourself with the Registrar of Societies. It is virtually impossible these days to open a new bank account for an association without going through these formalities.
• But, above all, retain a focus on wine. Remember that wine has many facets and can be paired not just with food but also music, art, theatre and, sometimes, just plain fun.

Wines I’ve been drinking: A “baby Super Tuscan”, the Brancaia TRE 2014 (89 points from Wine Spectator, Rs 3,094 in Bengaluru). What catches the eye first is the funky minimalist label, which I’m told is exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Then there’s the intense and complex aroma of crushed berries and cherries, a result, no doubt, of its provenance of being made from (mainly) Sangiovese and bits (10 per cent each) of Cabernet and Merlot. The taste does not disappoint: medium-bodied but elegant, with fine tannins and a lasting finish. Quite wonderful!

Cin Cin, as the Italians would say.

Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant