Kebabs from Karachi

Pakistan's famous kebabchi is back at the trade fair in New Delhi

At the 34th edition of India International Trade Fair (IITF), stalls from Pakistan seem to have stolen the show. The crowd isn't just rushing pell-mell into Pakistani food stalls, it is also thronging stalls of suits, fabrics and designerware from across the border.

Although only two food stalls are dishing out authentic Pakistani cuisine, the one set up by Al-Haaj Bundoo Khan from Karachi is clearly pulling the crowds with kebabs that melt in your mouth, delectable chicken biryani and its signature halwa.

A household name in Pakistan, Al-Haaj Bundoo Khan has enjoyed the patronage of politicians such as the former president of Pakistan, Ayub Khan, slain prime minister Benazir Bhutto and former president Asif Ali Zardari. Nawaz Sharif is also seen occasionally having dinner at its famous Karachi outlet with his family.

"This is our passion, and not a profession. In our family, we may get trained as engineers, doctors and others, but ultimately, we love cooking and serving people. We do not believe in cheap commercialisation or marketing gimmicks but thrive through sheer word of mouth," says Shahid A Bundoo Khan, who now runs a chain of Al-Haaj Bundoo Khan restaurants across the world.

Khan, who has been visiting the trade fair for over a decade, is convinced that people in India have started understanding and enjoying Pakistani cuisine.

The restaurant was started by Khan's grandfather, Al-Haaj Bundoo, in 1948 after he migrated to Pakistan from Meerut in Uttar Pradesh following Partition. They were originally silversmiths. However, as a result of the exodus, the family could not sustain the business, and started selling keema (minced mutton) in a place near Karachi.

His grandfather then opened the first outlet on Karachi's famous Bunder Road. This became a frequent hangout for not only politicians but also cricketers and film stars. Slowly as the business expanded, Bundoo Khan became a brand to reckon with in Pakistan. In 1961, his grandfather was conferred a gold medal by then President Ayub Khan for making the best kebabs in the country.

Today, they have outlets in Dubai, London, Chicago and Australia. They also take part in several international exhibitions and trade fairs. "We were the first ones to introduce Pakistani food here in 2004 as part of the 'Made in Pakistan' show. I have been trying to establish a business in India for a long time. We are in search for collaborations here," Khan says, adding that he had been facing difficulties in obtaining work permits here.

Khan had been also urging the authorities in India Trade Promotion Organisation (ITPO) to allot them an exclusive food area where they can showcase their expertise and not club them up with other food stalls.

Bundoo Khans are a family of 110 members, all of whom are associated with the business in some way or the other. Khan's five sons, who have obtained degrees in engineering and business administration, manage the restaurants both in Pakistan and internationally.

Some of their signature dishes are Mutton Bihari Boti, Mutton Punnah, Chicken Handi and Halwa. "Every year the demand for Bundoo Khan kebabs is increasing. This year we have people asking for a variety of dishes. Even though Delhi has a majority of vegetarians, the demand for meat items is huge. So, before coming to IITF, we made sure that we could offer at least one new dish here," says a proud Khan.

Interestingly, although the food stall is located far away near Hall Number 6, true connoisseurs of Al-Haaj Bundoo Khan do not mind walking all that way for him.