Passing on a tradition

Zorawar Kalra's Punjab Grill marries fine food to sound business.

Zorawar Kalra, managing director, Wrapster Foods, and son of legendary food consultant Jiggs Kalra is happy the way his newest venture, restaraunt Punjab Grill in Amby Mall in Gurgaon, is shaping up. “This is the best time to be in the food business. The rentals are seriously down,” he says as he seats himself at a table in the restaurant on a workday afternoon. A quick look around, and its easy to see why Kalra is happy. The tables are full even though the mall has been mostly empty. Kalra says that he has ramped up expansion plans to take advantage of the current low rentals.

Kalra, aware of his father’s larger-than-life reputation in the food business ,says quickly, “I am not a chef. I like the business side of the food business.” An MBA degree from Boston later, Kalra came back home to the food business, though he says that in his company there are no family members who are involved. Says Kalra, “I want to run this company in a professional way.” His company currently employs 430 people and, according to Kalra, most have direct access to him.

Being a hard-headed businessman hasn’t kept Kalra out of the kitchen though. He says, “I approve the menu. My father designed the menu but I got my favourites like salmon tikka on the menu.” Salmon tikka is, in fact, the signature dish of the restaurant and Kalra points out how the very best ingredients are used to make every dish.

According to Kalra,this move towards using the best and innovating even in Indian food has been neccessitated because of the way the consumer has evolved. He says, “The Indian consumer has become jaded. To please the ‘been there done that’ consumer we have brought in dishes like tandoori duck, which isn’t available anywhere else.” The unusual may be the order of the day but Kalra’s food is comfortably familiar and tasty without sitting heavy in the stomach. Says Kalra, whose company’s mandate is to promote and sell Indian cuisine, “There is this feeling that Indian food is heavy but that’s not true. In this restaurant we make sure to keep the food light and that’s why we get so many people for lunch as well.” With that comment, Kalra rolls up his sleeves, much to the amusement of his staff, and enters the kitchen just to show that he isn’t a pro just at spreadsheets.

FAVOURITE RECIPE

SALMON TIKKA
1 kg salmon
First marination
90ml red wine vinegar
35gm garlic paste, strained
15gm ginger paste, strained
2.5gm fennel seeds
1 star anise
Salt to taste
Second marination
150gm hung yoghurt
30ml cream
30gm Cheddar cheese, grated and then mashed
30ml mustard oil
1.25gm ajwain
2.25gm paprika powder
1 sprig dill, chopped
5gm honey
10ml lemon juice
Salt
To sprinkle
A generous pinch of amchoor
A generous pinch of black rock salt
A generous pinch of kasoori methi

Clean, bone, wash, pat dry and cut the salmon into two-and-a-half-inch cubes. Mix all the ingredients of the first marination, evenly rub the fish cubes with this marinade and reserve for 15 minutes.

Whisk the hung yoghurt in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients of the second marinade, mix well, evenly rub the fish cubes with this marinade and reserve for 15 minutes.

Skewer the cubes slightly apart, keep a tray underneath to collect the drippings.

Roast in a moderately hot tandoor for four minutes. If using a charcoal grill, it requires the same time. If using a pre-heated oven (on a greased baking tray) bake for six minutes. Remove and hang the skewers to allow the excess moisture to drip off. Roast again for a minute.