Switzerland remixed

STET

On my first visit in six years to this notoriously clean country, I'm happy to report that it remains spotless despite the influx of Bollywood film stars and crews (long ago my mother saw Karishma Kapoor sitting in the middle of the road in Montreaux, eating chappatis that were being heated beside her on a little portable stove).

Switzerland is the sort of place where everyone is in bed by 10 pm. Euro 2008 is happening here, of course, but the most I've seen of it is the odd little sticker saying "Allez les Bleus!". The matches must have television audiences, but they're extremely quiet, at least in the little villages of Blonay and

St Legier, which overlook the inverted blue smile of water that is Lac Leman, aka Lake Geneva, and which look up at the jagged snowy range called the Dents du Midi that hangs suspended in the clouds like a toothy grin.

Of all the things you might expect to see on Lake Geneva