Jean-Michel Casalonga shows how a perfect pair of bespoke shoes is made

A whisky-coloured façade greets the eye as one enters Berluti’s maiden boutique in India, at the DLF Emporio, Delhi. It’s interesting to see the imaginative use of Venezia, the patinated leather preferred by the Parisian shoe brand (from the LVMH stable of luxury labels), in the décor — from the armchairs and detailing to the walls and floors. On display are the brand’s range of leather goods, bespoke shoes and ready-to-wear pieces — the highlights being the emblematic Alessandro shoes, Un Jour briefcases and Playtime sneakers. One’s attention is drawn to the various prototypes arrayed on the table, as the master shoemaker, Jean-Michel Casalonga, gets ready to demonstrate all that goes into creating a bespoke Berluti piece.

His story as a shoemaker is as interesting as the pieces he turns out. A self-proclaimed shoe addict, Casalonga joined the brand as an intern at the young age of 23, eventually becoming the house’s youngest maître bottier (master shoemaker) in 2008, when he was just 30. Initially, he had to hide his work from his parents for more than a year, as he tried to balance shoemaking with an advanced degree in physics. However, his passion for the former overshadowed everything else, and he dropped out of school, spending five years learning the 250 precise steps needed to make a single pair of Berluti shoes.

Casalonga recalls a Berluti advertisement from the 1990s, which ran the tagline, “Your shoes have a soul” and, through the years, he has been infusing that spirit through unique designs and patina.

“I remember the Tatoué collection, based on perforations to simulate sewing. Then there were Fil d’Ariane, Démesure, Magistrale, Indio — each model has been well thought out and each pair has a story,” says Casalonga. For him, each Berluti shoe is the result of a collaboration between the customer and the shoemaker. “Each customer is different and has precise expectations. My philosophy is to bring him into the process,” he says.

A typical pair of Berluti custom shoes, designed by Casalonga, or one of the company’s other two master shoemakers, takes 50 man-hours over a period of at least six to nine months. The customer gets to try a mock-up, three months after the first appointment. And six months after the fitting, the delivery date is discussed with the buyer, as he gets to meet the shoemaker for the third time.

A pair of Berluti custom shoes, designed by Casalonga, takes 50 man-hours over at least six to nine months

The price of these bespoke creations starts at $7,000, going up with the degree of customisation. These are carved on a paroir — a medieval tool, somewhat like a giant machete attached to one side of the workbench — sourced from Paris flea markets. As Casalonga nails the layers of the leather sole, he keeps up the conversation about the materials and processes. “We use very exclusive leathers, such as that of kangaroo. The final touch is the dressing up with the patina, which gives the shoe its character. Whether it is tattoo, engraving, hot stamping, embroidery or nailing, our level of customisation is very high, and we are always open to new challenges,” he says.

In the course of his career, Casalonga has come across a range of customers from Japan, the Middle East, Southeast Asia and more. Different customers have their own quirks and fetishes. Some pay a lot of attention to comfort, while others like to focus on the perfect shape. Then there are some clients who are extremely fussy and like precision in the smallest of details. “But at the end of the day, a pair of bespoke shoes has to have the perfect balance between comfort and aesthetics, and between what the customer is expecting and what we can do,” he says.