The charming provincial venue for today's clash between Chile and Australia may be the smallest of all the 2014 World Cup cities, but it can proudly put in a claim to have the mother of all roadworks.
Fans emerging from the Green City's airport this week were greeted by tarmac chaos -- an asphalt lunar landscape, but unlike the Moon, without the nice view of Earth.
A multitude of man-made craters -- a health hazard for any caipirinha-guzzling supporter -- mounds of sand, cement mixers, and heavily-laden trucks with claxons blaring, made life trying for the average hire car.
"It's a mess," taxi-driver Eduardo, a cuiabano, happily conceded.
"But once it's finished, it'll make life easier for us."
Like the city, Cuiaba's brand new stadium, the Arena Pantanal, has endured its own frustrations, and even tragedy -- a worker was electrocuted last month -- on its way to hosting four first round matches.
Legal disputes held up work at the 40,000-seater eco-friendly site but it eventually received its FIFA seal of approval.
On Thursday a posse of workmen were defying sizzling 34 degree celsius heat to apply the final touches ahead of the following day's 2200 GMT kick-off.