The vote comes as China takes a tough line against any challenges to its sovereignty, with high-profile young candidate Agnes Chow barred from standing because her party promotes self-determination for the semi-autonomous city.
The atmosphere was tense early Sunday when a small group of people heckled Chow as well as leading pro-democracy activists Joshua Wong and Nathan Law near a polling station, according to an AFP reporter at the scene.
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"When there is a restriction on freedom of speech and we face more suppression on civil disobedience and protest in the streets, it proves that it's more necessary for us to vote," Wong told reporters.
Beijing has become increasingly incensed at the emergence of activists advocating independence and sees calls for self-determination as part of a dangerous splittist push.
The by-election was triggered after Beijing forced the disqualification of six rebel lawmakers who had swept to victory in citywide elections in 2016.
Some were former protest leaders, others openly advocated independence. All were ousted from their posts for inserting protests into their oaths of office.
Four of the six vacant seats are being contested Sunday.
"The election is not just about selecting me as a candidate, it is also about voting for justice," said Au Nok-hin, who stepped in to contest the Hong Kong Island seat after Agnes Chow was disallowed.
The seat was originally held by Law, also a 2014 protest leader, who was among the six thrown out of office.
But pro-establishment politician Judy Chan, standing against Au, cast the opposition as provoking "violence and resistance".
"The by-election is a chance for the silent majority, who are tired of a politicised Hong Kong, who detest those who humiliate the country, to come out and tell those politicians that Hong Kong has no room for them," Chan told AFP.
Many of the first people to cast ballots at a polling station AFP visited early Sunday were more elderly and supportive of the city's pro-Beijing establishment.
"I'm not resistant to democracy and freedom, but I can't accept the independence of Hong Kong," voter Chan Chik-sing, 60, told AFP.
Others said China needed to recognise people were angry about inequality.
"If the government's policies were really that good and supported by citizens, the public's satisfaction level for the government wouldn't keep deteriorating," said voter Lilian Leung, who was in her late 30s.
The six lawmakers were retrospectively barred from office by Hong Kong's high court after Beijing issued a special "interpretation" of the city's mini-constitution stipulating legislators had to take their oath "solemnly and sincerely" or face being banned.
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