World shoe aficionados flock to Italian masters

A stone's throw from the Duomo in Florence, students from around the world are learning the art of shoemaking from an Italian master and bringing fresh hope to an artisan trade in crisis.
Bukola Asafa, a 30-year-old mother-of-two from Nigeria, stitches a deep red lining for a pair of made-to-measure grey moccasins, while around her others mould wooden models for high heels or shape leather on thunderous fleshing machines.
"I studied for an MBA at Liverpool University then opened my own company making bags in Lagos. Now I'm here to get that 'Made in Italy' touch for shoes. The designs will be mine, but influenced by Gucci!" she said with a wide grin.

She is not alone in travelling to Florence to learn from master cobbler Angelo Imperatrice, 75, who was taught the trade aged 11 by his uncles. Some of his students go on to sell their shoes for USD 3,991 a pair.
Imperatrice is from the Basilicata region in southern Italy but grew up in the Tuscan city famed for leather-working, where the cobbled streets "once thrived with artisans, from silversmiths to watchmakers and knife-sharpeners", he said.
The bustling streets near Michelangelo's statue of David may sport trendy shops with dazzling shoe displays, but it is the Oltrarno area on the other side of the river where the heart of Florence's ancient artisan sector thrived.

"Crafts like these have fallen out of fashion, but young people would do well to consider cobbler apprenticeships. They could become the next Salvatore Ferragamo," he said, referring to the Florentine designer loved by A-listers.

The blue-eyed master teaches up to eight students at a time at the Accademia Riaci -- there is a long waiting list -- and around 100 have graduated so far.
Amid the rolls of suede, calfskin leather and cord stand finished models, from a pair of towering patent-red heels with a seductive, winding ankle-strap to a lower-heeled blue velvet-lined court shoe with a small gold fork as a clasp.

Mashizan Masjum, a television producer from Singapore, said he had long dreamt of designing women's shoes -- "elegant, but with an edge" -- and believes he and his fellow students from Japan to South America will help keep Italian shoemaking alive.
"In this class we have people from all over the world learning from the same Italian master: it's globalisation at its best. There is a crisis, but with every crisis comes opportunity," the 41-year-old said as he nailed down a sole.