A Primordial Soup Called Gumbo
To begin with, one must accept that gumbo is to stew what Bill Gates is to computer jock. This Creole creation could only have been dreamed up by people who worshipped daily at the altar of food and sacrificed untold man-hours in pursuit of the perfect meal.
The dictionary defines gumbo as a stew concocted of meat, fish and frequently okra. I prefer the description set down by fantasy writer Terry Pratchett: Primordial soup.
Versions of gumbo can be tossed off easily in the microwave in an hour, or on stove-top in about two. But these will probably bear the same relation to real gumbo as Monica Lewinsky bears to Marilyn Monroe.
Real gumbo takes time. Real gumbo demands planning, strong arms and a willingness to be lavish with the butter. (In New Orleans, they draw a fine distinction between food thats good to eat and food thats good for you. Only the first qualifies as real food.) Chefs who specialise in gumbo occasionally disagree about whats more important the composition of the Creole seasoning (the New Orleans version of garam masala), whether the roux should be peanut-butter coloured or chocolatey, and whether you should start by making the stock a day ahead.
A good stock lies at the heart of a good gumbo; dont ever substitute soup cubes for this one. But there are a few shortcuts for the cook in a hurry.
David Pannett, chef at a New Orleans restaurant, e-mailed a few recipes for good stock and passable stock. For good stock, he recommends roasting the bones in a very hot oven until well-browned. Then to dump them in a stockpot and cover with water. Roast roughly chopped onions (with skins on) and carrots in the oven until brown too, and add them to the stockpot. Add celery, peppercorns, and bay leaf and herbs. Bring the stock to a boil, skimming the scum off, then reduce the heat and simmer slowly for 6-8 hours. Strain, cool, remove all fat from surface and refrigerate.
Otherwise, start with canned chicken stock and improve it with the roasted onions, carrots, and other ingredients. Simmer for at least an hour, then strain, cool, remove fat and refrigerate.
Before you start on the gumbo itself, put up a couple of jars of Creole seasoning. Its very versatile can be used in jambalayas, risottos for an exotic flavour and soups. Ive even used this as an emergency flavouring for a mutton rezala! It came out unusual, but very good.
Creole Seasoning
2 tbsps onion powder, 2 tbsps garlic powder, 2 tbsps dried oregano, 2 tbsps dried basil, 1 tbsp dried thyme, 1 tbsp black pepper, 1 tbsp white pepper, 1 tbsp cayenne pepper (or 1/2 tbsp Kashmiri mirch), 5 tbsps sweet paprika.
Mix thoroughly in a large bowl and store in jars.
Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
(Serves 6)
1 cup oil; 1 cup flour; 2 large onions, chopped; 2 red capsicums, chopped; 4 stalks celery, chopped; 4-6 cloves garlic, minced; 4 quarts chicken stock; 2 bay leaves; 2 tsps Creole seasoning; 1 tsp dried thyme; 1 large chicken, cut into pieces; 2 lbs smoked sausage, cut into 1/2 inch pieces; 1 bunch spring onions, tops only, chopped; 2/3 cup chopped parsley
Season the chicken with salt, pepper and Creole seasoning and brown quickly. Brown the sausage, pour off fat and reserve the meats.
In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil and cook the flour over medium to high heat, stirring constantly, until the roux reaches the colour of dark coffee. If youre nervous about your roux-making skills, cook to a medium, peanut butter-colour on a lower heat.
Add the vegetables and stir quickly this will stop the roux from cooking further. Continue stirring for four minutes or so.
Add the stock, seasonings, chicken and sausage. Bring to a boil, then cook for about an hour.
Add the chopped spring onions and parsley and heat for 5 minutes. Serve with rice.