Sneakers For The Well-Heeled
The increase in the numbers of sports shoes in India means that selecting a pair can prove quite a marathon task. And the entry of foreign brands has made local shoe manufacturers pull up their socks about what they foist onto the Indian consumer.
At the low end of the market, between Rs 250 to Rs 500, you find brands like Liberty Force-10 (superior and lux), Vanson (Aerobok), and Action (Rockers). The models in this range are basic they have canvas, PVC (a plastic compound) or synthetic leather uppers, and flat soles made of PVC or rubber. Such models serve more for casual wear than as active sports wear.
Though canvas is economical, it is neither waterproof nor very durable; it does, however, keep cooler than leather or synthetic materials, so it can be a smart choice for casual outdoor wear in the summer. Synthetic leather and PVC heat up relatively fast, so even though they are durable and cheap, they dont ventilate your feet too well. As for the soles, PVC and rubber provide traction with the ground so you dont slip, but they are both heavy materials and weigh down your feet more than the higher priced brands.
Moving up the price scale, brands like Phoenix Tuffs, Liberty Force-10 Deluxe and Action Premium are available for about Rs 500 to Rs 1000. These models have polyurethane (PU) soles, which are more cushioning and lighter than PVC. Some of them also have a rubber coating on the outer sole, so there is still traction without weighing down the wearer too much. Most of these shoes have uppers of PVC coated leather or leather the former can hold the original form of the upper longer, but the latter ventilates the foot more.
For above Rs 1,000, you move into the realm of specialised sports shoes for running, basketball, tennis, aerobics, cross-training and so on. This end is dominated by foreign brands, but Indian manufacturers are gradually getting a foot in the door. Liberty has introduced a Geo-Sports range for football, golf and cricket; Woodland has introduced models for running and trekking; and Phoenix, high-ankled models for basketball. In terms of international players, you have Lotto, Reebok, Adidas and Nike competing for an imprint on the market.
The gradation in price here depends largely on the material of the sole. From Rs 1,000 to 1,500, you get soles made of EVA (a rubber compound) which is lighter and more cushioning than its PU predecessors. For Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,500, you find soles made of compressed EVA this is more durable and retains cushioning longer, especially useful for distance running. For above Rs 2,500, you will get sophisticated materials trademarked by the research and development divisions of sports shoe companies. Adidas offers adiPrene (a dense EVA compound), Reebok offers Hexalite (a modified PVC compound), and Nike offers Duralon (a blown-rubber compound). These all claim to incorporate minuscule air pockets that allow for cushioning, resilience and lighter weight in the shoe important for reducing muscle fatigue during long periods of sports usage. You will also find specialised sole design incorporating tiny pump systems; for example, Nikes Air and Reeboks DMX. These will cost at least Rs 3,000 as the components are all imported.
The uppers in the premium segment are made of leather, nubuck, and nylon mesh materials. The first two provide support; the third provides flexibility and ventilation. Each sports shoe category differs in specifics where support, traction and cushioning are provided. Running shoes have narrower toes and lighter nylon uppers, so that the foot rolls backward and forward without undue pressure on the ankles and knees.
Tennis shoes have wider, leather toes and traction soles for support while serving, and balance while moving across the court. Basketball shoes have fortified leather high-top ankles and resilient heels for elasticity while jumping. Aerobics shoes have well-cushioned toes and flexible leather uppers, since the chief impact is on the forefoot. Specialised shoes will always be more expensive they incorporate the research and development costs of studying each sports impact on the foot.
Theres a publicised controversy about the mark-up margins at which sports shoes are sold. The excise department claims that Reebok, Adidas and Nike are selling shoes at prices up to 130 per cent higher than the ex-factory price; Indian manufacturers like Phoenix and Liberty are selling them at up to 95 per cent higher than ex-factory price.
Company representatives claim that the margins actually include tariffs on imported materials, plus high commissions to retailers and distributors. The latter is needed because premium brands should be sold by trained sales people to explain the technical differences between various types of shoes. Foreign brands like Reebok and Adidas also point out that they are not entitled to a refund of countervailing duties on imported materials, since they are sourcing from Indian manufacturers like Lakhani and Lotus; this is an added cost over local producers. Thus, foreign brands say that their profit margins are the same as Indian companies. If our shoes cost more, its because the sportsperson gets more from the product, claims Subhinder Singh Prem, a general manager at Reebok India.
Branded sports shoes in India have a market size of over 20 million pairs a year at present; estimates are that this segment is growing at an annual rate of about 25 to 30 per cent. With a growing emphasis on fitness, consumers are clearly making tracks for their nearest sports shoe store.