Time to sparkle: A festival style guide from jewellery designers

Jewellery designers offer a style guide on mixing Meenakari with metallics, and brooches with blazers

Modern heirlooms

 

Delicate tennis chokers, ear climbers, and pastel Meenakari enamel backs offer minimalist drama, says Tarang Arora, CEO of Amrapali Jewels. For Durga Puja, he suggests shakha-pola-inspired enamel bangles with linen saris or dhotis. For Ganesh Chaturthi, go for layered gemstone necklaces or modular chokers with temple motifs, or earrings with a modern bustier, blazer, or embroidered blouse. Dussehra styling leans vintage — temple jewels and kamarbandhs meet layered separates. Diwali calls for opulence with a twist: bold chandbalis with stacked cuffs over an artfully draped sari.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Karan phool and jhumkas

> Structured blazers: Bold brooches

> Shararas: Chandbalis

> Pre-draped saris: Sleek white-gold pieces

> Woven saris: Layered necklaces with reimagined vintage earrings

 

Storied stones

 

Gemologist Rhea Poddar Loyalka says this season is about pieces that reflect personal style and are fluid enough to move from lehenga to linen blazer. From Mughal-inspired carved emeralds to uncut diamond chandbalis with spinels, nature and symbolism remain strong. Think floral rubies, lotus brooches, and crescent motifs. Add animal-themed brooches, wear bracelets over sleeves, or pin vintage jadau pieces on jackets. 

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Layered uncut diamond necklaces with gemstone jhumkas

> Structured blazers:  Gemstone studs, bold cocktail rings

> Sharara: Pastel chandbalis in morganites or rose quartz, matching haathphools

> Pre-draped sari: Asymmetrical multi-colour sapphire earrings, contrasting gemstone cuffs

> Metallic gown: Aquamarine or tanzanite collar necklace, cocktail rings

> Woven saris: Antique chokers with carved emeralds or rubies

 

Heritage refreshed

 

Gunjan Soni of the House of MBJ makes a case for pastel Meenakari and detachable polki drops: “For Durga Puja, layered polki rani haars pair beautifully with traditional Bengal woven saris. Ganesh Chaturthi calls for delicate Meenakari earrings, and a Marathi statement nath.” 

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Heavy polki chokers with layered long necklaces

> Structured blazers: Sleek diamond studs or a single statement polki neckpiece

> Shararas: Grand chandbalis and a Mughal-style passa

> Pre-draped saris: Polki choker with detachable earrings

> Metallic gown: Solitaire studs or a sculptural cuff bracelet

> Woven saris: Heritage polki necklaces with temple-inspired bangles or oxidised long sets

 

Layered drama

 

Priyanka Jain of Mohar Fine Jewellery highlights the rise of sleek geometry and mixed metals. Saturated stones like rubies, tanzanites, and emeralds bring Diwali sparkle. Pair a polki choker with a lehenga, a white shirt and blazer, or a V-neck dress; try statement studs and maang tikka with embroidered lehenga for Durga Puja. For Ganesh Chaturthi, go for lighter gold jewellery with a kurti. For Dussehra, combine falling earrings with enamel bangles and layered necklaces. \ 

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Polki choker and gemstone jhumkas

> Blazers: Layered chains with polki pendant

> Sharara: Pearl-polki “saath-phere” necklaces

> Pre-draped sari: Kundan kamarband and oversized studs

> Metallic gown: Fine chokers

> Woven saris: Light polki collar necklaces

 

Moissanite magic

 

Jeweller Harit Zaveri sees a rising trend in moissanite jewellery. Think delicate bracelets that double as chokers, and statement 18k sets with antique finishes. Designs with ghungroo detailing — pieces that move with you and make a little joyful noise — are especially festive, he says.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Bold antique choker and a haathphool for regal drama

> Structured blazers: Moissanite studs or vintage brooch

> Shararas: Chandbalis and a layered necklace

> Pre-draped saris: Convertible antique choker and statement ring

> Metallic gowns: Sleek collar necklace with Moissanite drops

 

Tradition meets trend

 

Heritage and contemporary intertwine today, says Manik Jain of Isvari Jalandhar Jewellery House. Jadau and polki continue to dominate festive wear, fusing traditional craftsmanship with vibrant gemstones and creative layering. Temple architecture-inspired jewellery, with motifs of Lakshmi, Ganesha, lotuses, and peacocks, is perfect for Durga Puja, Ganesh Chaturthi, Dussehra and Diwali, Jain says. Add brooches to sari pleats, blouses or blazers; repurpose bracelets as chokers; try matha pattis or embellished hairpins for a royal vintage touch. 

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Polki with gemstone detailing

> Structured blazers: Diamond stacks or brooches

> Sharara: Polki and diamond jhumkas

> Pre-draped sari: Emerald or ruby choker

> Metallic gown: Pearls or minimalist hair jewellery

> Woven saris: Temple jewellery sets

 

A new classic

 

Falguni Mehta, known for her jadau work, is all for embracing colour, contrast, and wearability. Navratna-inspired necklaces, vibrant gemstones, and layering are in. People now pair classic polki chokers or layered earrings with jackets, dresses, and even shirts, she says. For festivals, classic thussi, nath, and guttapusalu are being styled in contemporary ways. Mix vintage with minimal; wear jadau pieces with confidence across moods, not just occasions. 

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Chokers

> Structured blazers/white shirts: Layering long necklaces with pearls or polkis

> Sharara: Bold jadau earrings or statement maang tikka

> Metallic gowns: Open-setting necklaces

> Woven saris: Basra pearl chokers and textured gold pieces

 

Modular, versatile

 

Detachable jewellery lets people style a piece in new ways, says Yash Agarwal of Bir dhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers: a kundan choker worn with a shirt, or a earring worn solo. 

 

The jeweller’s Amer collection, with Mughal-Hindu motifs, is made for handloom saris and modern layering. For Dussehra, he recommends layering coin necklaces and kamarbandhs with floral lehengas, while Diwali calls for dramatic contrasts.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Traditional chokers with matching chandbalis and bold rings

> Structured blazers: Enamelled brooches, sculptural earrings

> Shararas: Maang tikkas and hathphools

> Pre-draped saris: Modular cocktail chokers, asymmetric necklaces or ear cuffs

> Metallic gowns: Polki earrings or ornate haathphools

> Woven saris: Kundan chokers, heirloom bangles

 

Eternal icons

 

Dhawal Jain of Nanagram, Jaipur, says women want “legacy with relevance”. Founded 75 years ago, the brand now creates diamond jewellery that bridges generations and wardrobes. The designs avoid excess in favour of purity — geometric diamond drops, classic solitaires, and fluid line necklaces.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Banarasi skirt: Sharp diamond choker with matching studs

> Sequinned jacket: Diamond line necklace or cuff

> Anarkali kurta: Diamond chandeliers or layered drops

> Embroidered wrap skirt: Solitaire pendant with dainty studs

> One-shoulder gown: Asymmetric diamond danglers for a modern spin

 

The power of play

 

Kumari Fine Jewellery’s the Royal Rebel line blends bold enamel and vibrant gemstones, making a statement out of every outfit — from a brunch dress to a Durga Puja sari. Traditional motifs like stars, crescents, florals, and hearts find modern form in cocktail rings, colourful charms, and chandelier earrings. Co-founder Supriya Kataria says women now layer chokers with chains, wear jewellery over sleeves, and stack rings across hands. She suggests clipping on charms to earrings or bracelets, or wearing them as pendants.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Lehengas: Royal Rebel chokers, stacked bracelets

> Structured blazers: Cocktail ring, ear climbers, statement pendant

> Sharara: Enamelled rings, gemstone studs

> Pre-draped sari: Diamond cuff or drop earrings

> Saris: Bold gold chokers

 

For the free-spirited

 

Pairing bold uncut chokers with a silk shirt and trousers or stacking enamel rings with lehengas is now the norm, says Neeti Patwa, founder and creative director, Oropel. For Durga Puja and Ganesh Chaturthi, Patwa recommends Meenakari earrings with saris or kurtas. Dussehra invites elegant long necklaces with minimal detailing, while Diwali is all about layering: kundan chokers, ear-to-hair chains, and bold rings.  

 

Styling tips

 

> Structured blazers: Layered chains or bold rings

> Shararas: Chandbalis or jhumkas with dainty hand harnesses

> Pre-draped saris: Asymmetric ear cuffs for a futuristic touch

> Metallic gowns: Sculptural diamond studs or gemstone drops

> Woven saris: Traditional chokers with kadas or antique cuffs

 

Forever fashion

 

“Gold bangles stacked 10 on each wrist? Absolutely,” says Vandana M Jagwani, founder of Vandals and creative director at Mahesh Notandass. “Go for diamond earrings to channel joy during Ganpati, a sculptural gold necklace to slay on Dussehra, and unapologetic sparkle for Diwali.” Pair your mother’s polki studs with a white shirt, or temple jewellery with a one-shoulder gown. 

 

Styling tips

 

> Banarasi skirt: Uncut earrings or temple jewellery for regal-rustic balance

> Sequinned jacket: Diamond earrings or black diamonds for cool contrast

> Anarkali kurta: Emerald beads or temple-carved gold necklace

> Embroidered wrap skirt: Bold bangles or a modular ear cuff