Learning to love wines

It's a given that most people in India know little about wine. For most people wine is either red or white - few know about Rose or dessert wines, so consumption of these two categories is negligible. There is also the tendency to call any sparkling wine "champagne" - although, as we know, all champagnes are sparkling wines, but only sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France from designated grapes can be called champagne.

Then there is the conundrum of price and quality. By and large, people think that the more expensive a wine, the better its quality and, consequently, that an entry-level imported wine costing, say, Rs 1,000 per bottle must be better than an Indian "reserve" priced at Rs 850. They forget (or overlook) the fact that imported wines suffer a customs duty of 160 per cent, apart from various state duties, and so their prices are artificially high. This may also be the reason why there have been a rush of new "reserve wines" priced at or above the Rs 1,000 barrier.

In any case, wine prices in India are far too high, jacked up by a combination of high taxes, operating costs and trade margins. Domestic wines that should be priced at Rs 300 to Rs 400 are pegged with retail prices of Rs 600 to Rs 800. The balance goes as "schemes and discounts", even to the extent of offering "one plus one" to consumers. Since excise regulations mandate setting the same trade margins for wines as for spirits (typically 10 per cent for retail) regardless of the longer turnover time for wines, retailers demand an additional 20- to 30 per cent by way of listing fees and discounts, which naturally get passed on the consumer.

Then there's the tyranny of the maximum retail price. This, in some states, is treated as the "mandatory retail price" by local excise, who tend to not allow retailers to pass on any discounts to consumers ("one plus one" schemes notwithstanding).

But what of the wine itself? Wine is not just another alcoholic beverage (even if all retail outlets tend to be called "wine shops") and deserves to be treated differently from spirits. It is a low-alcohol product that is "farmer friendly" and good for health. Several studies have indicated the health benefits of moderate consumption of wine. The study, "The French Paradox", aired on the American TV show, 60 Minutes, in 1991, caused the consumption of red wines to jump by 44 per cent the year after! Wine has no cholesterol, no fat, very little sugar (dry wines have 4 per cent residual sugar), low calories (175 calories per 150 ml), and several vitamins. And sipping wine gives you a nice feeling, not like beer (I just belch) or most spirits.

So here's my prescription for Wine 101 and good physical and mental health: have one to two glasses of a decent wine with your lunch or dinner every day, in the company of your friends or family. Laugh a lot. Have an early meal and spend quality time with friends and/or family after the meal. Don't stress - chill.

Wines I've been drinking: The Veneto region of Italy, near Verona, produces some superlative wines (Amarone, Valpolicella) from relatively little-known local grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. The Tenuta Sant'Antonio Scaia Corvina (Rs 1,786 in Bengaluru) is unusually not called a Valpolicella, but brings to mind the aroma of a decent Burgundy (roses and berries) combined with a medium body, soft tannins and a great finish that punches well above its price.

Cin cin, as the Italians say.

Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant