Handloom saree, the garment that defines the modern office-going woman

Professional jet setting women are finding their wardrobes incomplete without handloom sarees even as this ubiquitous attire make inroads into corporate boardrooms

From Indira Gandhi to Smriti Irani to Priyanka Gandhi and Nirmala Sitharaman, India’s public figures are seen draping the country’s heritage in nine yards, in the form of handloom sarees. The ubiquitous attire has been the traditional garment for the Indian woman of yore, but her modern counterpart has lapped it up to reinforce her personal style statement and work persona like never before. Often, the management boards of leading companies have women wearing only handloom sarees. Those at the top of corporate ladder, such as banker Naina Lal Kidwai, are almost always seen wearing either handloom cottons or silk.

What is it that makes this traditional wear so coveted? Take the case of Valli Bollavaram, Managing Director, GAP Inc India, who has everything from Pochampally, Mangalagiri Sico Sarees, Gadwal, Kuppadam, Kanchipuram and Siddipet gollabhama sarees. “Handloom brings together earth, myths, beliefs, community and identity. Once you are touched by its magic, it is difficult to go wear anything else.” She cites the example of the Dharmavaram saree that has paintings of the roof wall of Lepakshi temple set on the pallu and border. This strong cultural craftsmanship itself makes it an expensive piece of art. It takes three weavers ten hours a day for more than three months to weave an Uppada Jamdani saree. Valli believes the price cannot be fixed for such human effort and only a few have an eye for such intricate craftsmanship.

Today Indian fashion labels are bringing back the age-old craft of dyeing and colouring a fabric using wooden blocks that had been perfected over generations. From Rajasthan’s popular Dabu print to Gujarat’s Ajrakh, the much-loved handlooms are getting a modern interpretation and sometimes even an artsy and bohemian look. Raw Mango, a designer label where a handloom saree costs Rs 20,000 on average, is a brand many Bollywood A listers are seen wearing. Says Sanjay Garg, founder, Raw Mango, “Our designs feature motifs of monkeys, flamingos, angels and antique trellis of florals.” Garg says that his company caters to all kinds of women, irrelevant of profession, but for whom design is rooted in culture, heritage and history - whether they choose minimalistic options like the gold tissue sari, a sooti sari, simply colour block our textiles or opt for a brocade silk.

Are pre-stitched sarees and saree gown the new avatars of the humble handlooms? Saree creators and retailers say a vehement no. Says Rashmi Shukla, Business Head, Jaypore, a brand that has added a wide variety of handwoven sarees on their portal, “Pre-stitched sarees are a great option for those who are not comfortable tying it on their own, but nothing beats draping a saree from scratch. Saree gowns are another trend that has entered the fashion scene, but it is mostly done with chiffons, etc. A simple cotton weave is a great way to familiarise yourself with the garment, and work your way up to rarer pieces.” The Jaypore client for handloom sarees is typically the 35-plus, well-travelled, eco-conscious woman who appreciates the craftsmanship behind every piece. Often a handloom saree evolves into a vintage treasure and can be passed on to next generation. Each handloom product has a unique story behind it and the weaver is often seen animatedly explaining that to the buyer. 

But despite offering superior quality products, handloom weavers are still struggling to survive today. Women form an integral part of the Indian handloom industry, but there is not enough recognition of their contribution to the sector. Most women weavers are illiterate due to poor economic conditions which casts doubt on their social security and future aspirations. Some other problems and challenges which are stifling growth of the handloom sector and impacting its sustainability are - shortage of inputs and problem of working capital, lack of credit, marketing issues such as lack of awareness on customer preferences, inability to distinguish between handloom and power loom products, lack of promotional campaigns, inconsistencies in quality of product and inefficiencies in supply chain, greater competition from power looms and mills. As per the Third Handloom Census, Government of India, nearly 2.78 million handloom households are engaged in weaving and allied activities, of which 87 per cent are in rural areas and the rest in urban areas. 

India observes National Handloom Day on August 7 to celebrate weavers and the country’s handloom industry. But something needs to be done to protect this industry from being relegated to the past. Jaya Jaitly, a keen proponent of handloom weaves says that India is blessed that almost every state of India has a unique handloom product to offer such as Phulkari from Punjab, Chanderi from Madhya Pradesh, Ikats from Andhra Pradesh, Tie and Die from Rajasthan and Gujarat, Daccai from West Bengal, Brocade from Benares or Jacquard from Uttar Pradesh. She suggests if every Indian woman could wear a handloom for 100 days out of 365 days, the industry would be kept alive. 

Which are the bestsellers among handloom currently. “The Handloom Benarasi are a huge hit”, says Ankit Gaur, co founder EthnicRoom, a Pune based manufacturer and retailer of handloom sarees who feels that while they have many discerning working female client who are either self-employed or in service, but equally they cater to many brides who want to take handlooms in trousseau – “The wedding season is best season for us. So in that period the bride becomes our main client.”

Hand-woven Khadi is another popular option especially for the eco conscious well travelled women. According to Pinky Reddy, President, Ficci Ladies Organisation, “Khadi is also symbol of women’s empowerment as most of the weavers in India are women, it is important to bring Khadi to mainstream, which will help weavers especially women to continue doing what they do best as well as create more jobs. Charkhas need to travel back from museums, colleges and fashion events to weavers’ huts.”

A handloom saree is one of the most versatile options and can be worn for any event. It can easily transition from desk to drinks, from work to leisure or from boardroom meetings to board games, one can wear a saree with the same self-confidence. And as Valli points out a saree surely knows how to flatter a lady. A dull day can turn into a happy day with saree silhouette making one feel like a diva. Mind you, one need not go on a crash diet weeks ago to fit into a saree. 

Type of Handloom Saree	Price in Rupees	Type of Handloom Saree	Price in Rupees
Cotton Silk/Chanderi	2,000-7,000	Kota Silk	3,000-5,000
Kora Silk

3,000-10,000

Pure Handloom Cotton

4,000-8,000

Pure Linen 

6,000-12,000

Pochampally Silk

7,000-20,000

Chiffon 

8,000-12,000

Jute/Raw Silk 

10,000-15,000

Kanchipuram Silk 

15,000-30,000

Dupion Silk 

10,000-15,000

Pure Georgette Khadi

10,000-20,000

Pure Benarasi Katan Silk 

10,000-25,000