Kolhapuri chappal row: PIL filed against Prada over summer collection

A PIL has been filed in Bombay HC against Prada for allegedly copying GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappals in its ₹1.2 lakh sandal line; petition seeks apology, compensation, and govt action on GI protection

A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court against Italian luxury fashion brand Prada, accusing the company of copying the iconic Kolhapuri chappal design in its latest Spring/Summer 2026 collection, news agency ANI reported. The petitioner has demanded compensation for the artisans and legal protection for India’s traditional crafts. 

The Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather slipper with cultural roots in Maharashtra and Karnataka, holds a Geographical Indication (GI) tag under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Despite this legal protection, Prada’s recently unveiled ‘Toe Ring Sandals’ — priced at over ₹1 lakh — are said to be a clear derivative of the traditional Kolhapuri design. 

Intellectual Property Rights advocate Ganesh S Hingmire filed the PIL on Wednesday, alleging that the footwear showcased at Milan Fashion Week constituted cultural misappropriation and unauthorised commercialisation of a GI-tagged product.   

 

PIL accuses Prada of overlooking traditional custodians

According to the PIL, “The matter concerns the misrepresentation, cultural misappropriation, unauthorised commercialisation of ‘KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL’ during an international fashion event held at a Spring/Summer Men’s Collection 2026 at Milan, Italy on 22nd June, 2025, where its genuine origin, traditional custodianship and Geographical Indication (GI) status were entirely overlooked.” 

The petition seeks an injunction, along with compensation and damages for the artisans, citing harm caused to the communities who have preserved this craft for generations.

 

Critics call Prada’s quiet gesture ‘superficial’

In response to widespread criticism, Prada issued a statement acknowledging that its collection was “inspired by Indian artisans”. However, the petitioners argue that this acknowledgment lacks substance, pointing out that it was not made publicly or directly to the affected artisans, the government, or the GI Registry. 

“The Kolhapuri Chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has special public sentiments attached with it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is ‘inspired by Indian artisans,’ however, this acknowledgement surfaced only after facing widespread backlash... The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with any damages, compensation and entitled remedy and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism,” the PIL states. 

The petition seeks a directive to the government to bolster protection for Indian traditional designs and ensure global fashion brands do not exploit GI-tagged products.   

 

Kolhapuri design on Milan runway

The controversy erupted after Prada showcased leather sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals at its Milan Fashion Week show. The sandals, part of the brand’s Spring/ Summer 2026 menswear collection, were reportedly priced at ₹1.2 lakh. 

While Prada has since stated that the design was inspired by Indian craftsmanship, the timing of this admission — after public backlash — has intensified criticism from Indian officials and artisan groups. 

Kolhapuri chappals, known for their toe-strap design and robust leather craftsmanship, are an integral part of Maharashtra’s cultural identity. Their popularity surged in the 1970s after being featured in Bollywood films and has since become a globally recognised symbol of Indian handmade footwear.

 

[With ANI inputs]