In Uttarakhand, the second season of the “winter Char Dham” has just begun. This is the state government’s way of ensuring all-round religious tourism, maximising revenue from the business. Last year, about 30,000 pilgrims visited the winter abodes of the deities, which are situated in the lower reaches of the Himalayas. Just like last year, this year too, winter Char Dham will be making its contribution to the piles of garbage, much of it plastic, adorning the mountainsides and to the general environmental degradation that accompanies the business of housing and transporting pilgrims to the sacred sites. None of this appears to bother the Bharatiya Janata Party-ruled state government. But the asymmetry between religion as a business and as a spiritual exercise has never been wider.
The sites of the “winter Char Dham” are Kharsali (for Yamunotri), Mukhba (Gangotri), Ukhimath (Kedarnath) and Pandukeshwar (Badrinath). Like their summer counterparts that play host to five to six million pilgrims, all four winter sites face substantial and growing environmental threats owing to their fragile ecology and impacts of climate change. Tourism and “development” (read jerry-built hotels, rest houses and restaurants) have added their mite to the impending crisis that manifests itself periodically in flash floods and landslides. Pandukeshwar is about 24 km from Joshimath, the town that has been steadily sinking due to over-development but has been blessed by an official renaming to its ancient name, Jyotirmath, last year.
It is states such as Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand that are witnessing the flipside of Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee’s game-changing road-building programme. Today, highways and new roads can deliver thousands of pilgrims and holidaymakers to the valley and its scenic upper reaches with far greater ease than ever before. Residents of Landour, the charming former British sanatorium town situated above Mussoorie, increasingly find themselves hemmed in (or crowded out of) their homes over the weekends, as tourist hordes from the National Capital Region or nearby towns in the plains power in with their SUVs and performance bikes, pounding music and noisy extended families.
Tourism would not have had so deleterious an impact had the administration prepared for the greater tourist influx with due regulatory vigour. Standards for garbage disposal and architectural rules that are ecologically friendly and aesthetically in sync with local traditions could have transformed the state into a blueprint of sustainable development for other hilly states to follow. Instead, the same depressing pattern can be seen in every “hill station” around the country, where Dubai-style glass and granite structures intrude on the environment.
At least part of the reason for this destructive trajectory is rooted in ideological limitations of the current ruling party and the failure of imagination of successive administrations after the state broke away from Uttar Pradesh in 2000. With fewer resources beyond its Hindu pilgrimage sites and natural beauty, religious tourism offered an expedient means of bringing in the revenue. But there is another developing trend that the state authorities appear to ignore unless it involves a major real estate play. This is in the education space. Leaving aside upscale legacy institutions such as The Doon School, the state is rapidly developing as a haven of education, including vocational training, for middle class Indians. In the 2023 film Laapataa Ladies an ambitious young bride applies to a Dehradun institution for a computer course. Indeed, a host of schools and universities (“deemed” or otherwise) of questionable quality have also mushroomed almost unnoticed in the past two decades. This offers an invaluable clue to the direction that state could take.