Runway ride: Five designers bring the spirit of the open road to couture

Where leather, legacy, and speed collide: Five designers reinvent biker style for the runway, turning the road's rebellion, nostalgia, and power into couture with a pulse

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Harsheen K Arora & Vipul Amar

 

The creative duo of Vipul Amar and Harsheen K Arora blend the spirit of speed with the soul of craftsmanship through their label, V Renaissance. Vipul Amar grew up admiring the motorcycles of the ’50s and ’60s — think movies like The Wild One, Hell’s Angels on Wheels — and that cinematic nostalgia still fuels their art. 

 

“We once made a special helmet for a drag racer, and a custom jacket for a bodybuilder who couldn’t find one that fit,” he says. Their deep understanding of leather has led to collaborations with Indian Motorcycle, crafting bespoke seats and side bags for its legendary cruisers.

 

Every V Renaissance jacket is hand-painted — unique, unreplicable, and deeply personal. “We create that artistic, aged patina using waxes and oils,” says Arora. Their materials come from Italy, New Zealand, and Australia; their pieces have been worn by Shah Rukh Khan (Dunki), Sanjay Dutt (Ranger), and will soon appear in Vishal Bhardwaj’s O’Romeo. There is contouring, shading, and highlighting on leather, which, says Vipul Amar, has character. “It ages, it changes — just like us.”

 

Abhishek Paatni

 

Growing up in Uttarakhand, riding was Abhishek Paatni’s first love. From cruising through the mountains on his Yezdi to riding a Yamaha in the 1980s, he’s witnessed the evolution of India’s biking culture up close. “I explored Kashmir on my bike — it was a game changer,” he smiles. 

 

His fascination with motorcycle culture — from Harley-Davidson’s rugged Americana to the sleek swagger of Ducati — found its way into his fashion line, NoughtOne. Ducati was his dream bike, and he finally got one. “People buy hoodies to go with their bikes, but that’s not fashion,” he says. In 2023, Paatni presented his first racing-inspired show, a collection that blended performance wear with everyday style — “clothes you can wear to the track, or to a night out bowling with friends.” 

 

His designs channel the vibrant energy of the racetrack. Colour blocking is used as panels on the outfits; there are references from the motocross dirt bike racing; and bike logs have been added, almost creating his own racing team. There are also T-shirts with signature biker patches for shoulders, tank pads, and even radiator grills patterns that find expression in his textures and pintucks. “I’m heavily inspired by Valentino Rossi, Lewis Hamilton, and Marc Márquez,” he says. 

 

He has also drawn inspiration from the checkered racing flag. This December, he’s set to stage a show that pays tribute to the rhythm and blues of the race track.

 

Arjun Khanna

 

For over three decades, Arjun Khanna has been the custodian of a vintage aesthetic. “Everything old is my new new,” he says, and that includes lovingly restored typewriters and motorbikes. “Today, design feels homogenised — individuality has faded. Earlier, every bike or car had its own personality.” 

 

His love affair with the Triumph began after watching Steve McQueen in The Great Escape — a film that shaped his fascination for retro biker style. The red, blue, and white stripes of Steve McQueen’s jumpsuits found their way to his bandhgalas, and the long belt collars he has designed are reminiscent of what race drivers wore. “If you see F1: The Movie, starring Brad Pitt, you will notice that vibe is back,” says the couturier who has closely followed the Le Mans trophy and the natty jumpsuits the riders wear. His biker jackets are now double-breasted. He has also created jackets fastened with vintage watches as buttons.

 

Khanna continues to fuse Indian heritage with motor nostalgia, using fabrics like brocade and tanchoi alongside leather detailing. “It’s all about that retro, macho energy — not just for speed demons,” he says. His own collection includes a 1956 Norton Dominator, a World War II Harley-Davidson WLA, and a 1948 Royal Enfield — one of the oldest in India. He has expanded his love for all things vintage into denim shoes and biker boots.

 

Manoviraj Khosla

 

For Manoviraj Khosla, racing and fashion have always shared a fast lane. “There’s a distinct synergy between the two,” says the Bengaluru-based designer. “Think of James Dean, Steve McQueen, and, of course, John Travolta (in Grease) in their Chevrolets and Cadillacs.” Their high-octane leather jackets instantly became an icon of rebellion and allure. 

 

   

Khosla reimagines that classic jacket through embellishments, embroideries, and an inventive mix of real and faux leather with suede accents, even brocade. The biker jacket of today is nothing like what the bad boys of drag biking would flaunt. “What was once a symbol of gang culture and rebellion is now unisex, glamorous, and enduringly chic.” His palette surprises — sunshine yellows, charcoals, whites, and emerald greens. 

 

Sushant Abrol

 

For Sushant Abrol, fashion is an adventure sport. “Bikes go where roads don’t — that’s how I think about design, too,” he says. His label, Countrymade, blends functionality with aesthetics, crafting outerwear that’s as resilient as it is refined. 

 

Abrol works with waxed and resin-coated canvases that are waterproof, durable, and rugged — “second skin” for modern riders. “Even if you fall, it won’t tear,” he says. His pieces, including leather pants, balance utility and luxury, with subtle finishes that feel quietly powerful. “Leather gives confidence; it’s strong, masculine, and timeless.” 

 

A Royal Enfield rider for over a decade, Abrol is also part of the Gentlemen’s Chapter in Gurugram — a biker community that rides for social causes. “Every ride, every jacket, has a story. Ours just happen to fit a little better,” he smiles.