The other day, when a friend commented that it was great that Holi was falling on a long weekend this year, I remembered how differently people celebrate the festival in Mirzapur. Holi wasn’t celebrated on one single day there — instead, it was observed for most of the Hindu month of Phagun. When I lived in Mirzapur, what seems now like a lifetime ago, wearing gulal-stained clothes to work used to be de rigueur in this season. You couldn’t go past a field without spotting a cow splashed with pink, or drive down GT Road without seeing psychedelic cars. And
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