Picture perfect

HIT THE ROAD

Kishangarh, a little off the standard Jaipur-Udaipur-Jaisalmer et al tourist map, looks like a fairly cruddy little town when you first drive in. Don't lose heart, though. Keep driving towards the old part of town, where the wonderful Phool Mahal Palace Hotel is located.

A stately, graceful building from the Rajput era, it is a heritage structure and situated right under the Kishangarh fort. The fort is in a relatively good state of repair and well worth checking out.

If you inform the hotel well in advance, they may be able to arrange a viewing of the Maharaja's personal collection of Kishangarh miniature paintings, mostly of an erotic nature. The old town has lots of beautiful old havelis and shops, and a must-stop is Chhotuji Kachoriwale for scrumptious kachoris and pethas.

Kishangarh is 365 km from Delhi down NH8, via Jaipur. The road until Jaipur is excellent, after which highway construction work slows things down a bit. The Phool Mahal Palace Hotel (Ph: 01463"�247405) is the best place to stay, at Rs 1000 onwards.

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